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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all, old time owner, second time poster here. I have a 2016 MT09, gen 1, in some places it might be gen 2, india got its gen 2 in 2017. 9k km ridden.
I was recently doing some diag mode checks on dash and noticed that the voltage read 11.8-11.9 volts, but when I connected the multimeter to the battery, it said 12.5.
Just to confirm I checked someone doing the same test on Youtube and it showed 12.5 for them.
Is this a possible issue?
I started these checks because I started facing some power loss issues and I have cleaned the tank/pumps/injectors, changed the clutch, tried all possible solutions.
Earlier I used to easily power wheelie in standard mode 1st gear. Now A mode full throttle and nothing. Nothing has been changed on the bike ever since the issue started happening.
So now Im simply guessing that there is something wrong electronically maybe since Im seeing the voltage is difference as well.
Anyone has any idea what could be the reason for the difference?
Any and all help is appreciated. Thank you.
 

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I'm guessing a voltage drop between battery and dash. Was this with engine off? What's the running voltage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm guessing a voltage drop between battery and dash. Was this with engine off? What's the running voltage?
Yes, engine was off as it was in the diagnostic mode. The running voltage should be fine as the multimeter read the correct reading. Im just worried because in the same mode, the other bike online was showing 12.5
So Im worried if there is an electrical/electronic issue causing this difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update:
I just warmed up the engine a bit and tested on dash, it is showing 12.2-12.3 now, I guess the drained capacitors and cold resisitors in the circuit were causing a lower voltage to show.
I freaked out a bit too early Im afraid 😅
 

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12.5V at the terminals is not very good for the stock AGM battery. A fully charged battery in very good shape should be 12.8-13.0V after sitting overnight (voltage would show a little higher for a while after charging).
At the same time, I don't believe this by itself would be the cause of the bike being down on power because when the bike's running the charging system should be providing the power, but you can swap it for a new one and see if that fixes it. Probably the easiest thing you can try at this point.
Test the charging system components too - procedure's in the service manual.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
12.5V at the terminals is not very good for the stock AGM battery. A fully charged battery in very good shape should be 12.8-13.0V after sitting overnight (voltage would show a little higher for a while after charging).
At the same time, I don't believe this by itself would be the cause of the bike being down on power because when the bike's running the charging system should be providing the power, but you can swap it for a new one and see if that fixes it. Probably the easiest thing you can try at this point.
Test the charging system components too - procedure's in the service manual.
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Thats true, but I have been trying to diagnose the power loss for months and at this point Im taking every little win I get.
If its not too much hassle, could you check your voltage diaplayed in diagnostic mode? It would surely give me some reference.
 

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If its not too much hassle, could you check your voltage diaplayed in diagnostic mode? It would surely give me some reference.
I have a Gen 3, it doesn't have a built-in diagnostics mode.
Have you tried charging the battery with an external charger? If after charging, the voltage eventually drops back down to 12.5, the battery should be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have a Gen 3, it doesn't have a built-in diagnostics mode.
Have you tried charging the battery with an external charger? If after charging, the voltage eventually drops back down to 12.5, the battery should be replaced.
Checked on a cold bike with multimeter. Off voltage, 12.9, key on voltage, 12.6, running voltage 14.1
I dont think battery is bad. Im just confused why diagnostic mode is showing 11.9-12v when battery that time is showing 12.5-12.6 which isn't supposed to happen.
I charged it fully with an external charger and it held the charge at 12.9 after leaving overnight post charging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
What is the diagnostic mode voltage now? And do you still have the power loss problem?
So a stupid think that I shoukd gave checked, as per the service manual, that voltage should be around 12 only. I dont know why the other individual showed 12.5
Diagnostic mode 9 voltage is still 12, as it should be. Power loss is still there.
Going the clear the fault codes in record in case it is in some sort of limp or safe mode.
 

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Anything over 12v on a 12v rated battery is OK. However, it may still fail a load test.
 

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So a stupid think that I shoukd gave checked, as per the service manual, that voltage should be around 12 only. I dont know why the other individual showed 12.5
Diagnostic mode 9 voltage is still 12, as it should be. Power loss is still there.
How significant is the power loss? And is it maybe a misfire that you can hear? Or you can hit the headers with a temp gun and see if any cylinder isn't quite right.
You didn't mention anything about the spark plugs, maybe try changing them.
Maybe a compression test is in order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How significant is the power loss? And is it maybe a misfire that you can hear? Or you can hit the headers with a temp gun and see if any cylinder isn't quite right.
You didn't mention anything about the spark plugs, maybe try changing them.
Maybe a compression test is in order.
Power loss is significant, 1st gear, A mode wide open throttle and it doesn't lift even when I tug the bars, and I have done my fair share of power wheelies on it even in second gear.
The issue is that it is not showing any other symptom. No odd sounds, rough idle or hot/cold start issues. I'm in talks with flashtune as a flash issue is the only possibility I can think of.
I hope I get a response, have't recieved a single response in 4 years.
 

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The issue is that it is not showing any other symptom. No odd sounds, rough idle or hot/cold start issues. I'm in talks with flashtune as a flash issue is the only possibility I can think of.
I hope I get a response, have't recieved a single response in 4 years.
Wait, this started happening after you got your ECU flashed? Shoulda led with that man, lol
 

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Pretty sure it didn't start immediately after having the ECU flashed. He never mentioned that, but he did mention not being able to get a response from Flashtune for four years, so I'd assume it's been flashed about that long.

Buffmoto, did you send your ECU off to be flashed or did you do it yourself with a cable kit? If you did it yourself, can you go in and look at the maps? Perhaps one is corrupted (?) and someone knowledgeable ( definitely not me!) can look at a screenshot or something and maybe find a clue for you.
 

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I will bet that you have either a corroded negative battery terminal or a bad connection at one of the many connections in the wiring harness. When you are checking the voltage from the dash you are going through several connections. When you check at the battery terminals with a meter...no connections so it is reasonable that there is a difference.
9 and 10 times this will be the fault. (I was an aircraft electrician).
Check battery terminal first. If you spot any white looking powder that is the corrosion. Mix a half glass of water with a table spoon of baking soda..mix it up, apply to the terminal and connector with a brush. The corrosion is an acidic substance. Baking soda is the opposite (basic) so the two cancel out each other. Then use a soft wire brush (brass for example) and clean.
If that does not solve the problem then bring out the hunter in yourself. Buy a small spray bottle of contact cleaner and take each connector apart, spray, brush with soft small paint brush, dry and reinstall. To save time after cleaning one go ahead and try the motorcycle. No sense in cleaning them all if you already found it. The most likely one probably is in a location where it is able to be sprayed on. (Loose rubber boot for example)
Good Luck, I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Pretty sure it didn't start immediately after having the ECU flashed. He never mentioned that, but he did mention not being able to get a response from Flashtune for four years, so I'd assume it's been flashed about that long.

Buffmoto, did you send your ECU off to be flashed or did you do it yourself with a cable kit? If you did it yourself, can you go in and look at the maps? Perhaps one is corrupted (?) and someone knowledgeable ( definitely not me!) can look at a screenshot or something and maybe find a clue for you.
Thats right, the issue didn't occur when I flashed it, I was on a ride one day and no matter what I did, it stopped popping up.
I tried reflashing, going back to stock; nothing works, luckily I could do this since I got the bike side harness, otherwise transporting overseas is difficult. My only option is getting a reset image from them, but I have never recieved a single response from them. Neither with my earlier bike and flash, nor this one. Will try calling them finally which hopefully they will pickup and not avoid seeing an international number.
Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I will bet that you have either a corroded negative battery terminal or a bad connection at one of the many connections in the wiring harness. When you are checking the voltage from the dash you are going through several connections. When you check at the battery terminals with a meter...no connections so it is reasonable that there is a difference.
9 and 10 times this will be the fault. (I was an aircraft electrician).
Check battery terminal first. If you spot any white looking powder that is the corrosion. Mix a half glass of water with a table spoon of baking soda..mix it up, apply to the terminal and connector with a brush. The corrosion is an acidic substance. Baking soda is the opposite (basic) so the two cancel out each other. Then use a soft wire brush (brass for example) and clean.
If that does not solve the problem then bring out the hunter in yourself. Buy a small spray bottle of contact cleaner and take each connector apart, spray, brush with soft small paint brush, dry and reinstall. To save time after cleaning one go ahead and try the motorcycle. No sense in cleaning them all if you already found it. The most likely one probably is in a location where it is able to be sprayed on. (Loose rubber boot for example)
Good Luck, I hope this helps.
Thank you for your help, I actually checked the manual (which took me a while to find) that on dash, it should be 12 itself. And since the voltage at the battery terminal seemed good, that means all is good electrically, touch wood.
Again, thank you for your response ☺
 

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Thats right, the issue didn't occur when I flashed it, I was on a ride one day and no matter what I did, it stopped popping up.
It's not the flash. Flashes don't 'go bad' like that. But let's say your ECU somehow got hit with cosmic rays and the flash data got corrupted in the middle of your ride. Reflashing would have fixed it, unless somehow your flash files also got corrupted.
Have you gone through the sensor and actuator tests using the onboard diagnostics? Especially the ones involving the APS and TPS. Make sure both can go through their full range of values.
And do as Pegasus suggests, clean all of the connectors. Sometimes even just reseating helps.
Your problem is either going to be electrical, or mechanical. Both suck, but electrical sucks less in terms of $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It's not the flash. Flashes don't 'go bad' like that. But let's say your ECU somehow got hit with cosmic rays and the flash data got corrupted in the middle of your ride. Reflashing would have fixed it, unless somehow your flash files also got corrupted.
Have you gone through the sensor and actuator tests using the onboard diagnostics? Especially the ones involving the APS and TPS. Make sure both can go through their full range of values.
And do as Pegasus suggests, clean all of the connectors. Sometimes even just reseating helps.
Your problem is either going to be electrical, or mechanical. Both suck, but electrical sucks less in terms of $$$.
Yup, I have done the complete diagnostics and every possible check there is. That is the weirdest part as I mentioned, there is mo other symptom. No rough idle, no shaky hot/cold start. Nothing.
Being an engineer I also assumed that if the values are written, how can it go bad. But then I went through the ftecu forum and a lot of people faced some ecu problem or the other and a flash reset helped them. So with the process of elimination, I want to check off that as well.
 
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