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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well gentlemen, I managed to make a rookie mistake today and messed up a simple task trying to tighten the chain slack. The chain was fairly loose but didn't realize how much tension is achieved on the chain pullers with just a few turns of the bolt! I got a little out of hand and ended up over torquing the bitch which crushed the aluminum a bit... not happy about it. I'm going to go to the stealership tomorrow and order a new one, but I'm sketched out to even ride it now because of how precise the adjustments need to be when making both sides even. It could be out up to half a mill on the notches now, it's hard to tell. How serious is this?

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I don't trust the drive blocks anyway as they are usually wrong. Search youtube for how to align your wheel using string alignment. It is easy and accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Plus it's really frustrating trying to eyeball the blocks cause of how far the notch on the swing arm protrudes out. If you're not looking dead straight at it the alignment it will be off.
 

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I've done the same to the blocks on my bike. They are soft aluminum and do that fairly easily.
If only they were steel - I wonder if that would have made the bike overweight!?!?!?

I did post something on wheel alignment using a straight edge - have a search for that. Probably in the how to section.
Yes, I know what you mean about the offset marks and parallax error.
 

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I'd have the Stealership tow it in....but that's just me. Food for thought anyway. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Since I don't have a rearstand yet, I ended up making a homemade tool to measure from axle to swing arm bolt, the alignment was fine... this time. Bought a motionpro chain tool for future alignments.
 

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I use a dial caliper to measure the distance between the swing arm and the adjustment block. I not sure a new adjustment block is necessary.
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I did the same damn thing. Also now whenever I tighten up the axel bolt the end of the axel (as shown in your picture) doesn't line up exactly with the wall of the aluminium chain puller. No idea why this is happening though. Don't think it's related to damaging the chain puller
 

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Possible the axle was not fully seated in the adjusting block, the block is not a puller, if the axle was tight and you tried to move the block this maybe why the part is damaged. I also think the factory had the axle too tight, and the specified torque seems too high to me, 108 ft.lbf. When you adjust the chain loosen everything adjuster and the axle nut, loose, I also pulled the axle and put high temp grease on the axle and assembly lube on the threads. As stated the marks are pretty much useless, I use a electronic micrometer, for the adjusting block, on the chain, eyeballs, string might work, but you can use a toy laser pointer and point it down the links to check alignment. Make sure you don't move the blocks when you tighten them down, and I reduced my axle torque to 85 ft.lbf and the wheel spins free. Hope this helps.

Ride Safe.
 

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I use the older style Motion Pro alignment tool. It measures from the center of the swingarm pivot...to the center of the rear axle. {on each side} Don't worry about 1mm mis adjustment. You won't notice it no matter how hard you ride. Never trust the stock adjustment marks.
 
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