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Clutch plates replaced, clutch won’t engage/disengage

14K views 54 replies 12 participants last post by  SLM13 
#1 ·
I swapped out my clutch plates but now that I have everything back together, the clutch won’t engage/disengage the gears. I’ve aligned the clutch cable arm the dot to the arrow…anyone know how to trouble shoot this? Would really appreciate it.
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#4 ·
It seems to be an issue beyond the cable and more to do with the clutch and plates itself.
The issue is, even down by the clutch arm by the gearbox (what’s pictured above), pushing it in doesn’t engage/disengage the clutch so I can change gears if that makes sense. So it’s likely something to do with the way I put the clutch back together if I had to guess?
 
#8 ·
OK, it an XSR, so it has the OEM slipper clutch. When I bought my OEM kit to put the slipper clutch in my 2016 FZ-09, it came with a couple clutch plates that are thicker than the others and they are the last 2 that are installed and the final one has to rotate one notch position.
 
#13 ·
Yeah my kit also came with a few extras, I took a micrometer to the metal plates to make sure I was getting the plates with the right thickness. I didn’t measure the total thickness of friction and metal plates before soaking them in oil, but unless there were some issues in manufacturing it shouldn’t be an issue. I also followed the service manual and placed the plates in the correct order with the last one notched into its own slot like you mentioned
 
#9 ·
There is a trick to getting the gear of the arm lined up when sliding the cover on or your lever will be stiff and unable to engage the clutch. You have to turn it further than you think and the gear will turn as you are putting the cover on. The only other problem I encountered is that the triangle piece on the basket can be put on backwards because it is unmarked.
 
#14 ·
I had to take the cover off and on and make small adjustments to get the arm/lever in the right place lining up the dot and the arrow. It’s a bit of a pain. Thankfully I realize I didn’t have to take the whole cover off every time and I could just keep the screws slightly screwed in and the cover will push off just enough to move the rod a notch at a time.
I’ll double check the triangle but I believe I have it on the correct way since the indentation fits the screw head and springs best one way.
 
#15 ·
what do you mean by the fibers? I’m assuming you’re talking about the friction plate? The friction plates can be placed in either direction, I believe it was just the metal plates that had the preferred direction.
The metal plates were placed with the sharp edges pointing outward as several videos were recommending. I also stacked the plates as directed in the service manual.

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#20 ·
Is there anyway to manually see if the clutch is working as intended with the clutch case off? I’m just trying to determine where the issue is and would be great to see if it’s something inside the clutch boss or if it’s the rod on the case not engaging properly with the pressure plate.

I will maybe record a video as I put everything back together so you guys can point out what I’m doing wrong…
 
#22 ·
The pressure plate itself is in correctly but the triangular metal plate was in flipped upside down like you pointed out. It’s unfortunately still not working. Do you know when you put the clutch back together did you need to restart the bike before the clutch started working properly? I put it together and tried engaging the clutch after putting the cover back on but it’s still not releasing the gear…
 
#24 ·
The Pull rod is not engaging on the cable lever. You should not be able to move the clutch cable lever by hand with-out alot of force. Yours is moving to easily. Put some grease on the Pull rod so as engagement to the lever will help to line up...
 
#32 ·
Think I’ve got it to work. It was ultimately the positioning of the clutch arm I believe as the clutch cable didn’t have enough tension to pull the clutch free. I mistakenly thought the positioning of the arm needed to be aligned with the arrow and dot solely through the tension of the arm spring whereas it actually needed to be completely taut with the cable fighting against the pull of the spring on the rod to meet the dot with the arrow.

Thanks everyone, if there’s any further issues I’ll give an update.
 
#41 ·
Hi Everyone, I am struggling with an exact same issue on my 2019 Tracer 900 GT. I do believe I have the lever set at the right angle. The dot and triangle line up when voer is fully on and the lever is seated / no free play. However, the clutch is so darn tight that I cannot pull in the clutch. I believe I am working against the 3 springs. The springs are torques to 10Nm.
 
#42 ·
I have disassembled and reassembled my clutch 3 times now down to the clutch basket. I end up in the same situation. I have triple checked all the plates and friction discs for tab alignment and sequence. Only confusion was on the last plate which I believe I have correct now. Triangle that holds springs is correct but at 10Nm, those springs a torqued tight .. not sure how I can pull them using my clutch lever. Any help is appriciated.
 
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