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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the proper way to replace the clutch cable? I have no issue taking out the cable out of the lever side.
The engine side seems like it won't simply slide out...the end of the cable is is pretty secure in the metal bracket. Looks like there is a small piece that can be bent to take it out but I don't want to break it off and risk the cable sliding out during a ride.

someone can enlighten me?
 

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What's the proper way to replace the clutch cable? I have no issue taking out the cable out of the lever side.
The engine side seems like it won't simply slide out...the end of the cable is is pretty secure in the metal bracket. Looks like there is a small piece that can be bent to take it out but I don't want to break it off and risk the cable sliding out during a ride.

someone can enlighten me?
Had mine off yesterday - pry open the tab with your fingernail, replace cable, then push the tab back in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks GF

I was worried it might snap off given how thin it is but sounds like it's more malleable than I thought!
 

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AND WHATS THE REASON FOR ALL THESE CABLE REPLACEMENTS??:confused:
 

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AND WHATS THE REASON FOR ALL THESE CABLE REPLACEMENTS??:confused:
I put a set of risers on, in addition to the GPR stabilizer. (Both rotator cuffs repaired, bad elbows, back, old man, etc.) The clutch cable was tight when turned to the right. Replacing with one from an R1. The cable itself needs shortened 1". But OAL was +2"
 

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I put a set of risers on, in addition to the GPR stabilizer. (Both rotator cuffs repaired, bad elbows, back, old man, etc.) The clutch cable was tight when turned to the right. Replacing with one from an R1. The cable itself needs shortened 1". But OAL was +2"
Just being nosey. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I used to run the clubman bars on my ride, due to back pain had to revert back to the stock.

Noticed some fraying on the cable and given how many other clubman owners had clutch snaps I had to take preemptive measures to not get stranded on the side of the road....
 

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I used to run the clubman bars on my ride, due to back pain had to revert back to the stock.

Noticed some fraying on the cable and given how many other clubman owners had clutch snaps I had to take preemptive measures to not get stranded on the side of the road....
Now thats what I was really wondering about. Thats really the only clutch cable failures I have read about was with the clubmans.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Good recommendations rocky. I actually have that motion pro tool and use it with PJ1 cable lube. Unfortunately the bend caused by the clubmans was too much and drenching it in lube didn't help much.

I still lube the cable every couple of months.

Does anyone else lube the throttle cables? When I was pulling the ECU, it looked like the throttle body side of the cable was enclosed. Would lubing the throttle from lever side send all the lube into the throttle bodies?
 

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Good recommendations rocky. I actually have that motion pro tool and use it with PJ1 cable lube. Unfortunately the bend caused by the clubmans was too much and drenching it in lube didn't help much.

I still lube the cable every couple of months.

Does anyone else lube the throttle cables? When I was pulling the ECU, it looked like the throttle body side of the cable was enclosed. Would lubing the throttle from lever side send all the lube into the throttle bodies?
+1 If I give the throttle cables a blast of cable lube, it would just be enough to lubricate the throttle tube end of both throttle cables. The Clutch cable would gets a full blast until I see it come out down by the clutch on the right side of the engine.

When we lubed are clutch and throttle cables on the old dirt bikes, it was the clutch cable that seemed to always be the dirtiest. Plus we never broke a throttle cable, it was always a clutch cable that would cause problems.

I am almost tempted to see if I can get a clutch lever boot like this for the 09, like all the old dirt bikes had.

Text White Line art Font Organism

Looking up the clutch cable boot online, it's a cheap $1.69 part for my DR650SE, hmmmmm????? lol
 
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That's a great idea, I hope it works. Another thing I do when lubing; I put grease on the lever pivot (bolt and cable end), and I brush grease into the arm and spring. I wipe off the excess, but it still leaves a surface film, an aid in corrosion prevention. Also, +1 on using the motion pro cable luber. Keep it Greasy!
 

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I like to put some light grease, not grease lightly, around the barrel at the handlebar end of the cable at the clutch lever to lessen the chance of drag leading to the barrel breaking off. Had it happen several times over the years but not since greasing the cable ends.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good call on the pivot point. When I changed my levers only had a bit of wd40 in the garage and that quickly washed out...couple of weekends ago I greased the lever pivot and bushing with white lithium grease and was amazed how smooth the action became.

Really recommend everyone keeps on top of small maintenance like this. Less hand fatigue = more enjoyable ride
 

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With teflon lined cable housings, all I do is run carb cleaner or contact cleaner thru. Flush all the crap out and let the teflon do it's thing...... no lube needed. Esp the throttle cables. Good way to stick things up is with lube.....

Leared that the hard way.
 
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