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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced the crankcase cover that covers the clutch. So its the one that has the clutch cable connected to a rod that goes inside of it. I crashed a few months ago and i finally got around to replacing this cover since it was mostly cosmetic.

After replacing it and reconnecting the clutch cable i found that i couldn't get the clutch to operate the same anymore. Now instead of being fully engaged when all the way let out and fully disengaged about 2/3-3/4 of the way pulled in it is fully disengaged about 1/8th of the way pulled in and still engaged when fully out. I re adjusted near the lever and down along the cable where it has the two nuts mounting the cable to the engine. I also tried multiple positions with the connector for the actual rod that goes into the crankcase. I pretty much adjusted everything i could without taking the crank case cover off again and trying moving stuff around in there.

Its still rideable, but its much harder to be smooth and the clutch is much more abrupt. Does anybody have any suggestions as to how I can go about getting it back to where it was? It feels like the ratio has changed...like instead of a 1/1 ratio its a 3/1 ratio for movement of the clutch lever vs how far the clutch actually moves.

Thanks for any advice.

Zach
 

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My first advice would be to not ride the bike untill you figure this out unless your planning on buying a new clutch soon. Second check the routing of the cable. Make sure there is no kink anywhere. I would remove cover again if it all looks ok from outside. and visually check movement of the cable. Did you check your lever for proper connection?
 

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I take it that you had to swap the lever from one case to another. was there any way the arm and the rotating mechanism was not aligned to the correct position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My first advice would be to not ride the bike untill you figure this out unless your planning on buying a new clutch soon. Second check the routing of the cable. Make sure there is no kink anywhere. I would remove cover again if it all looks ok from outside. and visually check movement of the cable. Did you check your lever for proper connection?
Did all that. I need the advanced advice, I'm pretty technically savvy, i just don't have the experience just yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I take it that you had to swap the lever from one case to another. was there any way the arm and the rotating mechanism was not aligned to the correct position?
Yeah i had to swap it, along with the bearings that Yamaha denies the existence of....I'm not kidding. Anyways i swapped all the inners over to the new one and checked proper alignment. But now that you mention it, there is something on the inside that could have had a different position to give it more or less slack. It could be off by one tooth. The pull rod has teeth on the end of it that connect to a rod that pulls on the clutch. It had the possibility of a little slack and me being someone that hates slack pulled that out to its stopper then put everything together. That would make the pull rod impact the clutch Immediately rather than later.

Sorry my technical language isn't the best but I may know what it is now. Good news is i doubt it will cause any issue other than making shifts with the clutch a lot faster since I don't have to pull it in very far anymore.
 

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I had a look at the clutch diagram... the rod the cable is attached to has a wheel on the end cut like a gear that runs on a grooved track in the actuator pin. Maybe the gear is a tooth ahead or behind where it should be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had a look at the clutch diagram... the rod the cable is attached to has a wheel on the end cut like a gear that runs on a grooved track in the actuator pin. Maybe the gear is a tooth ahead or behind where it should be?
How did you make that make sense? When i try to describe this stuff it sounds like gibberish.

I completely agree, I think it is a tooth ahead, because it disengages the clutch too fast. I need to bring it back one or two so that it doesn't separate too fast.

I feel embarrassed now, such a simple thing. And i did everything else right. I even remembered to do a criss cross pattern on the cover and to put the right side of the new gasket facing towards the engine.
 

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I went to the diagram looking for a spacer that might be missing, but then I saw how they were using a gear instead of a cam... so much info there.. I had to stare at it for a while! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I went to the diagram looking for a spacer that might be missing, but then I saw how they were using a gear instead of a cam... so much info there.. I had to stare at it for a while! :)
What's funny is Yamaha's parts department doesn't have enough details on their diagram to find bearings for the clutch shaft. They told me that the bearings don't exist. Very disappointed in Yamaha on this. Luckily a local shop had the necessary skills.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's easier when it isn't your own 09 lol.
Yes, I spent 5 hours just trying to replace 2 covers and to change the oil. It also involved driving about 15 miles. Such a simple job.

I've been more successful teaching myself the wizardry known as suspension tuning.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So that wasn't the issue.

I removed the clutch cover and fiddled, but there wasn't anything to change. I had installed it like you are supposed to. I adjusted it back exactly how I had it before I removed the cover the first time and I'm still having an issue.

Now I have a new theory...when I changed the oil I put a new kind in, I used castrol full synthetic instead of repsol blended. Same viscosity and what now just from a blend to a full syn and a different brand. Both are supposed to be wet clutch safe, but I think the castrol might be more slippery on the clutch so the friction area is smaller and more abrupt.

What do you guys think? I'm at over 2k miles. So Dino to 600 miles with a change at 100 miles then blended from 600-2000 then I went to full synthetic. But I also changed the clutch cover so this might not be the issue.

Thoughts?

-Z
 

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Maybe go to dino oil known to be ok. Though if it is an oil issue I don't know if it can be undone by changing the oil.

When I try syn I will probably go with the the one TripleThreat uses, a Mobil one used in cars, um, 15w-50? I'd have to look it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe go to dino oil known to be ok. Though if it is an oil issue I don't know if it can be undone by changing the oil.

When I try syn I will probably go with the the one TripleThreat uses, a Mobil one used in cars, um, 15w-50? I'd have to look it up.
It's definitely just a shot in the dark, looking for thoughts. It works fine and I am positive that it's not causing damage. Because it definitely looses contact when I pull it in and has full contact when I let it out because there is the proper amount of slack. So I'm not worried and I'm sure I will just get used to it.
 

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Ok... time for a measurement! With the end of the tape hooked on the inboard end (closest to the centerline of the engine) of the u-channel bracket that holds the cable, I see approximately 67mm to the face of the box that holds the cable end.
 

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What direction is the lever arm on the case pointing? On my bike it is pretty much straight down before pulling the lever in.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It's straight down. I did some fiddling and a friend adjusted it plus I rode his bike and it all feels the same. I think a lot of it was in my head.


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Just for a baseline... the adjustment at the case end should put at least some tension on the cable, enough to take up most (say 9/10) of the slack in the clutch assembly. The free play in the lever end is where most of the "free play" adjustment should be made, NOT at the case end. HTH
 
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