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Discussion Starter #1
I've just done the tension adjustment again from scratch.
I compressed the rear suspension until the countershaft sprocket, swingarm pivot and rear axles were centred and in a direct straight line. This is the fullest extension point of the chain.
I then set slack to 5mm using a bit of pressure up and down on the chain. The Moss method.
I then released the rear suspension and measured again, on the rear stand = 20mm slack - same method.
On the side stand it's 15mm.
Bear in mind that my bike has 12mm more ride rear height, so a stock bike will need a bit less slack due to the swing arm not traveling as far in its arc. I'd go for 18mm on a stand and 13mm on the side stand. Certainly no less.
 

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Did you installed a longer rear link in order to increase the rear suspension heigh? How longer did you the rear links installed?

Inviato dal mio MI MAX 3 utilizzando Tapatalk
 

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Did you installed a longer rear link in order to increase the rear suspension heigh? How longer did you the rear links installed?

Inviato dal mio MI MAX 3 utilizzando Tapatalk
Like many of us, Lou G has an aftermarket shock that is adjustable for length.
 
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I respect your opinion and usually agree, but I need 1-1.25" chain slack to feel comfortable that I am not stressing the counter sprocket on less than perfect riding surfaces and conditions. That is like 25-30mm. Dave Moss is the suspension guru for racers and track. Those years are behind me.

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you installed a longer rear link in order to increase the rear suspension heigh? How longer did you the rear links installed?

Inviato dal mio MI MAX 3 utilizzando Tapatalk
No. Adjustable ride height shock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I respect your opinion and usually agree, but I need 1-1.25" chain slack to feel comfortable that I am not stressing the counter sprocket on less than perfect riding surfaces and conditions. That is like 25-30mm. Dave Moss is the suspension guru for racers and track. Those years are behind me.

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No. It is not my opinion. It is proven fact after an hours work. I'm simply stating what I found and it may save others the job if they were thinking of doing it.
There is 5mm slack at the chains tightest point. That will not cause a problem with the countershaft bearing. You don't have to believe it though.
Road surfaces have nothing to do with it. The chain cannot shrink, and the various pivot points and axis of the sprocket and wheel will not move to tighten the chain. Any wear will loosen it.
It is simply a mechanical and geometric fact of life.
 
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No. It is not my opinion. It is proven fact after an hours work. I'm simply stating what I found and it may save others the job if they were thinking of doing it.
There is 5mm slack at the chains tightest point. That will not cause a problem with the countershaft bearing. You don't have to believe it though.
Road surfaces have nothing to do with it. The chain cannot shrink, and the various pivot points and axis of the sprocket and wheel will not move to tighten the chain. Any wear will loosen it.
It is simply a mechanical and geometric fact of life.
Chassis, swingarm, and engine mount points can flex. Again, I respect your opinion, but I have no reason to have my chain that tight...and I reserve the right to not be perfect and make mistakes from time to time. It's a forum... everything is an opinion!

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Speaking about chain tension, is it correct that the slack is greater when measured on the rear stand than the side stand one?

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I got similar results when swapping the rear shock over (disconnected - rear wheel up on wooden spacers).
I was able to align the 3 axis but found that 10mm of slack as measured at the back of the exhaust box, with the axis aligned, was just the right amount to remove the chain slack.
After reassembly the slack at the back of the exhaust box was 30mm, on either the side stand or paddock stand.
So for me, that's what I set it too. The manual amount of 10mm is wrong.
 

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Imma follow LouG's advice! I have a new chain sprocket kit arriving this week hopefully. Thanks @LouG, your efforts are most appreciated, even tho your opinion is fact based. LMFAO ( sorry, had to throw that jab in there ).
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Speaking about chain tension, is it correct that the slack is greater when measured on the rear stand than the side stand one?

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I found it was it was. When the bike settles on the sidestand, the stand relieves some of the weight on the wheels. You can see it happen and measure it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The factory setting of 10mm will have the chain like a bowstring at full extension. I found that setting the chain at full extension to 5 mm then just tightening the adjuster lock nut tightened it too much. So my slack is measured with adjusters and axle nut tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've just remeasured chain slack on the sidestand. Something was nagging at me.
I used vernier calipers and the slack is 25mm, not 15mm as on the ruler. Old eyes probably.
so 20-22mm on a stock bike is good.
it makes the factory setting even worse.
 
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Good advice LouG how did you compress the suspension for measuring?
Also did you have any success with Robert Taylor altering your Andreani fork cartridges?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good advice LouG how did you compress the suspension for measuring?
Also did you have any success with Robert Taylor altering your Andreani fork cartridges?
I used a couple of tiedowns hooked together over the seat. I protected the seat with a piece of 150 x 25 board wrapped in a towel. Then hooked the other ends over the rear stand spools. Then I could evenly compress from each side.
It's really tight, but held up fine.
My comp leg is much better now. A bit more compliant on big hits, a bit smoother, but still resists dive well. Worth the $200
 
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