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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When adjusting slack what is the proper measurement gauge.
Is it the hash marks on the swing arm or measuring the distance between the two arows (photo. Left edge of adj block and edge of swingarm))
For example if I measure between the arrows I come out even or within one millimeter. But if I'm looking at the hash marks for reference it appears slightly off. Does this matter either way? In the grand scheme of things to be off by a MM on one side or the other ?
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I always use the graduation marks to reference off the rear of the axle block. I give the wheel a kick in the ass to try and seat the block and then torque the axle nut to spec.
 

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The most accurate way to do this is NONE of the above. There is a way to do it with 100% accuracy, but it will cost you a bit of money to buy the tool. I purchased one of these back in maybe 2005 or so, and still have it. The owner of the machine shop passed away maybe 8 or 9 years ago, but his son took over the business and is producing them again. It's a sure fire way for accurate chain alignment without having to depend on the hash marks that are sometimes not very accurate.
You simply put one of the rods through the swingarm pivot point hollow bolt and center it and tighten the cones against each side of the bike. Same thing with the rear wheel. Perfect alignment is when the rear wheel axis is perfectly parallel to the swingarm pivot axis. After installing the rods, you simply take a measurement from rod to rod....on both sides (There is a flat surface at the ends of the rods for placing your tape measure). When the chain has the needed slack..AND the rods are the same measurement from the swingarm pivot point to the rear wheel, you are in perfect alignment. The last I saw, the pricing was $140 for the set.....don't know if that does or does not include taxes and/or shipping. Call of email him for exact info/pricing if you are interested.

Here are a couple of pics.....one of the rods installed and ready for measurements to take place. The other is info on how/where to contact Skip Chance for purchase....





Disclaimer: I have absolutely ZERO affiliation with this business other than being a completely satisfied customer for about 18 years
 

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I have always found those little alignment marks to be worthless. True, you can get your chain adjusted nicely but there's the very strong probability that your wheels will be out of line.
There are several methods you can use that actually work pretty well, here are the three most common.
A) Motion Pro makes a little widget that attaches to the rear sprocket and gives you a sight line along the top of the chain.
B) Measuring the distance between the axle/swingarm pivot shown by triplethreat.
C) The string or rod system shown here.
At least once take the time after adjusting your chain and do a string check to see where your wheels are at.


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The motion pro gadget is great except the rod is a little on the short side. I bought a longer 1/8 drill bit on amazon that makes sighting very easy. I set the slack on the sprocket side adjuster then adjust the other side for chain alignment. The motion pro tool is well worth picking up!
 

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I spent hours with a string line and vernier calipers measuring wheel alignment, the factory marks on my bike were about 3mm's out from memory. Once I established that, I use the arrowed positions shown.
 

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Wouldn't that possibly stretch the chain more while tightening
As a chain wears, it sort of "stretches" and people use that term. But that is due to increased gap between the pins and rollers.
The "sprocket jammer" cannot stretch a chain, which is made of steel.
The sprocket jammer just does what people had been doing for decades, like putting a screwdriver or whatever between the chain and sprocket.
Not a lot of force is being used, you can watch the axel snug up to where it needs to be and you just maintain tension against the wheel with a knee or whatever as you snug up the axel nut. Twisting the throttle puts more force on the chain than this does:
 

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I've probably posted this before, but here's a slide show of how I do wheel alignment, the chain seems to be well aligned afterwards with no rubbing on the inside of the chain side plates.
Even if the marks were correct, they are useless because of the parallax error (viewing angle error)
Once slack is set, squeeze the chain while torqueing to 80 ft lbs. This pulls the wheel forward against the adjusters.

You only need to do this once per chain if you remember to turn the adjuster screws the same amount each time you do an adjustment
 

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It appears that the alignment tools are extremely similar to the rods for my balancing stands. I bet they will work.
 

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It appears that the alignment tools are extremely similar to the rods for my balancing stands. I bet they will work.
The nice thing about the alignment tool that I posted is that they do have flat spots on both ends of the rods which make a repeatable location for a tape measure to be exactly where it needs to be for accurate measurement.
 

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I bought the Adjusters below. All you have to do is make sure your in alignment when you set up then you just click each side same amount of clicks when adjusting chain and your good to go. Love them so far. I do still give it a quick look with the motion pro alignment tool as mentioned above but soooo much easier,

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I bought the Adjusters below. All you have to do is make sure your in alignment when you set up then you just click each side same amount of clicks when adjusting chain and your good to go. Love them so far. I do still give it a quick look with the motion pro alignment tool as mentioned above but soooo much easier,

I've heard about the litech nice idea. The price is god awful. This is probably for the track rider or someone with deep pockets

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My overall question to the group is the following...
Is the measurement between the two arrows mentioned above correct?
Because the end swingarms are same length and the adjuster block is also the same width for each side. The fixed point and moving point

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