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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

Could you please help me to understand two things:

1. Did I rivet master link correctly?
123.jpg

2. Is everything ok with the chain?

Thank you in advance!
 

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Looks good.... :cool:
 

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If the rivet is snug side to side and doesn't bind, you should be good to go...
 

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That one part of the chain that is bouncing around I tend to think the rivet is on the tight side, easy to do...
 

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It is possible to get those pins too tight. Honestly, as crazy as this might sound to some, on a bike with less than 80 ft/lbs of torque running a 525 chain I'd be using a clip link.
I will be using a clip-style link with a D.I.D. X-ring chain when I replace the OEM chain. Then again, maybe not.
 

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It is possible to get those pins too tight. Honestly, as crazy as this might sound to some, on a bike with less than 80 ft/lbs of torque running a 525 chain I'd be using a clip link.
I will be using a clip-style link with a D.I.D. X-ring chain when I replace the OEM chain. Then again, maybe not.
I have always used a clip -- dirt bike or street bike. I even use a clip on my built GS1100 motor in my racing sidecar.
 

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Just an idea. Try marking the master link with some white or fluorescent paint and run it again. Then you can see easily if the chain jumps at the same spot each time.

The chain jump might also be from no load on the chain, and maybe the chain being a little on the loose side???

I have only run my DR650SE at idle, in first, with the rear wheel off the ground. It jumped like crazy with no load on the chain, it also sits at the twice the chain slack setting as the 09.

Chain_slack.jpg
 
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+1 on using a clip. Been using them for years on and offroad, never had a failure or any indication.
 
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I have read lots of guys use clip style master links, and add a dab of JB-Weld to stop the clip from going anywhere.

Hmmmm, my FZ-09 and DR650SE both have the same 525 chain size???? lol

Both are rivet style master links from the factory, but the first new chain on the DR will be a clip style.
 

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Ive been riding for over 15 years dirt or road and have never had a problem with a properly adjusted chain using a master link.

The clip should always be "closed end pointed" in the direction of travel.

clipdirection.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The main reason why I changed the chain, because someone had stolen my previous one with a clip style link :(
Chain jumps occur because the wheel is unloaded (I colored the master link in white to be sure that it wasn't the reason of jumps).
 

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The main reason why I changed the chain, because someone had stolen my previous one with a clip style link :(
Chain jumps occur because the wheel is unloaded (I colored the master link in white to be sure that it wasn't the reason of jumps).
Someone.... Stole your chain???

That is about as ghetto as it gets...
 

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I've always used clip style master links on all of my chains- off & on road as well as racing on dirt and pavement. Taggat's example is good, as long as you install accordingly, you shouldn't have any issues. I promise I've tested about as rigorously as you possibly can, and even had the same set up off and back on the bike again several times with no issue. When racing, riveted setup can be very inconvenient for making gearing changes, especially when your crew most weekends consists mainly of yourself, lol. One example of many would be my GSX-R1000 that had 170 rwhp running a 520 chain/ sprocket setup.
 

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How many miles is everyone getting out of a chain with the clip-type link?
 

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How many miles is everyone getting out of a chain with the clip-type link?
I run one chain on the sidecar for 8-race weekends. Each winter I move that chain to my dirt bike (a KTM 450 EXC) then install a new chain. So I'm not a good person to ask. Dirt bikes get bad chain wear for obvious reasons. When I had a KTM 950 Adventure, I'd regularly get 10-20K. I always replace sprockets whenever I replace a chain too.
 
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