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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

I've seen quite a few threads about adjusting the CCT using FizzerPilot's kit. Is there a procedure to adjust the CCT if you don't have a starting point (akin to putting in a new part and adjusting from scratch)? Since it's supposed to be self-adjusting, do I just let it run for a few minutes with the set screw out and then tighten the set screw? Roll the CCT all the way out or in and start from there?

Thanks,
ed
 

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are you talking about adjusting the stock yamaha tensioner? i actually loosened mine until i really heard the clicking and the vibration through the alan key and tightened very slowly with little force until i could no longer feel the clicking through the alan key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Yep, the stock tensioner. I'll give that a shot. Do you know if there's a point that will damage the engine? The reason I asked the question in the first place is that I loosened the CCT quite a bit trying to get the roughness in the wrench. I can hear the roughness and clicking, but the wrench was not vibrating either visibly or to the touch, no matter how much I loosened it.
 

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I was talking to my Yamaha dealer yesterday and he looked up the service note referring to this CCT issue and it states that if this is performed and installed without an authorized Yamaha dealer it voids the motorcycle's warranty.
 

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Yep, the stock tensioner. I'll give that a shot. Do you know if there's a point that will damage the engine? The reason I asked the question in the first place is that I loosened the CCT quite a bit trying to get the roughness in the wrench. I can hear the roughness and clicking, but the wrench was not vibrating either visibly or to the touch, no matter how much I loosened it.
over tightening can cause damage for sure - use small quarter turns with just your finger vs. using your whole hand. once the vibration in the alan key is gone - it should be adjusted correctly.
 

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I was talking to my Yamaha dealer yesterday and he looked up the service note referring to this CCT issue and it states that if this is performed and installed without an authorized Yamaha dealer it voids the motorcycle's warranty.
if you're taking the bike to the dealer - i'd remove the fizzer kit and put the existing screw back on - by the time you get there i'm not sure how they would confirm you've screwed with it - particularly given mine was so bad it went out of whack as soon as i left the dealership for first service. Kind of hard for them to prove you manipulated the CCT with the stock nut on there. I'm not an expert though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No worries about the dealer/warranty. I've been working to get that thing to vibrate through the wrench and it just won't, no matter how far it gets turned. I've been counting the turns to loosen and it's solid as a rock no matter where I put it. Not sure what to do with it now. It almost seems as though the thing isn't loosening as I seem to have the same number of threads showing on the set screw as I did when it was tightened down.
 

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someone else can probably chime in but are you sure you're actually loosening the tensioner? Are you hear a loud clacking noise as you loosen the CCT? You really have to get the 3mm allan key in there to move it one way or another and it's hard to see/feel it.
 

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All,

I've seen quite a few threads about adjusting the CCT using FizzerPilot's kit. Is there a procedure to adjust the CCT if you don't have a starting point (akin to putting in a new part and adjusting from scratch)? Since it's supposed to be self-adjusting, do I just let it run for a few minutes with the set screw out and then tighten the set screw? Roll the CCT all the way out or in and start from there?

Thanks,
ed

Are you certain it actually even needs to be adjusted? If you're not hearing the clatter from the cam chain rubbing on the chain guide, I probably wouldn't even mess with it. Maybe you're one of the fortunate few who actually got a CCT that's not sticking, and is operating as it should. If you've got the Allen wrench in the hole and you're not feeling any vibration-whether you've got it in the tension screw head or not, if it was loose you'd feel the vibration even through the inner walls of the CCT access hole. Another possibility is if the Allen you're using is the standard 'L' shape with the short side about approx. 3/4" long and if the tension screw has adjusted itself down beyond that point, you will never be able to engage the hex head-this is what happened to me. See the thread 'CCT tension screw missing?' for first hand observations and suggestions from the others. Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Pretty sure. I installed this kit a little while back because of the clattering/clicking and it seemed to work at the time. As weeks wore on, it felt as though I didn't have it adjusted correctly after the first install (clicking sound present, but not nearly as loud as it was before). I went to readjust it last night and that's when I noticed I couldn't get the vibrations back in the wrench that were readily apparent the first time I adjusted it. Either way, I think I got it to a point where it appears to be running smoothly. Any further issues and I'll ask the question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I believe I figured out why I couldn't adjust it properly. It appeared that nothing I was doing was adjusting the tensioner at all. So I pulled the part to check it out. The set screw/allen head does absolutely nothing (i.e. won't compress the spring). Maybe something inside stripped/f'd. I'm on the hunt for a source for a new CCT. Any ideas?
 

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Are you turning it counter clockwise to compress the spring? I think I read something about it compressing it by turning ccw. Maybe someone else can chime if they know. I know for me after 1200+ miles with the set screw in there I went to check how the adjustment was holding up and now the tension screw has adjusted itself down further inside than a regular 'L' Allen will reach, and even trying 2 different cut down 3mm I can't, no matter how long I spend trying, get them to engage the hex head in the tension screw. These CCT's are the most confounding mechanical part I've ever seen. As far as source, if you're stealership won't replace yours, as mine won't, I recently ordered my revision and a new gasket from Stadium Yamaha's online site(they're in Irving Texas)-$68 for CCT and gasket(unfortunately $55 UPS shipping to Hawaii), but they're back ordered until July 15. There are several online sources to buy from, Stadium was by far the cheapest, and I'm assuming they will all have the same backorder issue. Hope you get it sorted...
 

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You definitely go clockwise to tighten it.
 

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You definitely go clockwise to tighten it.
520-clockwise to tighten the tension screw for sure, but do you know if it's CW or CCW to compress the spring for a reinstall after removal like tinygiant did? CW for both? Damn brah, we're all becoming CCT experts after all this dickin' around with these things. I now know waaaayyy more about this 'newly designed' CCT than I ever cared to...
 

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520-clockwise to tighten the tension screw for sure, but do you know if it's CW or CCW to compress the spring for a reinstall after removal like tinygiant did? CW for both? Damn brah, we're all becoming CCT experts after all this dickin' around with these things. I now know waaaayyy more about this 'newly designed' CCT than I ever cared to...
ah I see what you mean. Intuitively I would think it's clockwise as well but I didn't mess with that. Did my own set screw and just haven't touched it in about 1000 miles.
 

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Yeah I'm not too clear on which direction for the spring compression either. I know I read a post awhile back that referenced turning it CCW to compress it, but I can't find it now and the poster might've been mistaken anyway. At the time when I read it, it seemed counter-intuitive to me as well. When I get my new one, I'm going to thoroughly dissect the old one right before I throw it into the nearest wall, lol...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Service Manual saw CCW to compress the spring. Either way, it wouldn't move no matter which direction I turn it and I couldn't manually compress the spring more than about 1mm (or less). There is the potential that the internal adjusting mechanism has travelled so far it's now off the adjustment screw, but that's unlikely (and really poor design). I'll pull the part again and take a closer look to see if that might be the case. With the part installed as is, the bike will not start (can't compress spring = too much pressure on the timing chain).
 

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Damn brah, that sucks. That's exactly what I think might have happened to mine. I haven't pulled it out yet to check it visually, and to have better access for fear that the same thing will happen to mine that your encountering. How far down inside the threaded hole is the hex head of yours? With it out of the bike, can you engage the head with the short(3/4") side of your Allen wrench, or is it too short to reach it now because that's what mine is like. What if you try to manually compress the spring and/or piston while trying to turn the tension screw at the same time, I wonder if that might ease the pressure on the tension screw and allow it to turn. From reading Fizzers post about his install of the new CCT, the revision comes with a 3mm hex shaft with what looks a nut on the top side that he suggests NOT removing until the CCT is installed compressed into the motor. I wonder if that nut makes it easier to apply enough torque on the tension screw to retract the piston and compress the spring allowing the tension screw to turn. I wonder, also, if we somehow damged the tension screw or some other internal part by putting in the set screw(possibly incorrectly?) or if the piston is just stuck-which is why Yamaha made the third revision in the first place-stiction in the piston was not allowing the piston to retract, compress the spring and allow the chain guide to move away from the chain. Let us know if you get it sorted, if you would. Good luck...
 

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For what it is worth. You cannot compress the spring, using the internal adjuster, if you don't manually compress the spring.

With the CCT removed, you cannot simply compress the spring. The spring will only compress a very small amount before encountering a mechanical block. Its about 1mm.

The tool supplied with the new CCT doesnt give much leverage, and they are specific, about hand tightening it, then after it contacts the chain, 1/4 turn more.
 

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the spring in the tensioner pushes the rod out. turning the adjuster counterclockwise pulls the tensioner rod back, against the spring (compressing it). clockwise moves the tensioner rod forward (what the spring normally does) against the cam chain guide. in normal operation with no allen key inserted, the spring is constantly pushing the rod forward to take up tension in the cam chain. the tensioner rod can't move back (save for a bit of play) due to an internal ratchet mechanism. when you insert an allen key, it simultaneously disables the ratchet mechanism and 'locks' the tensioner rod in such a way that it can only move in or out if it is turned with the adjuster. when the allen key is removed, it goes back into automatic mode, causing the rod to shoot out.

if you engage only the first 1-2mm of the adjuster with the allen key and turn it, you'll hear a clicking sound but the tensioner rod won't move. you need to push the allen key in further to get to the point where turning the adjuster will actually move the tensioner rod. you might have to fiddle around with it a bit to get it to engage.
 
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