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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here's a mystery-I've put about 1000 miles on the bike since installing the FizzerKit, and went to check and see how the adjustment was holding up or if it had loosened itself up at all, and to my surprise, the 3mm tension screw seems to have gone AWOL. I tried for a good 20 minutes to slot the Allen into it, but it doesn't seem to be there anymore. My question is; where the hell did it go? Has it fallen through the CCT, and is now bouncing around inside my motor? I'm using the same 3mm Allen I used previously-is it now too short? It's impossible to see inside that tiny hole due to the angle and size of it. Is it even possible for the tension screw to go all the way down to a point where I can no longer reach it? Need a longer Allen? Has anyone had a CCT out of the bike and could you tell me if it's even possible for it to just be gone? I originally adjusted it only to the same point(snug) that most of us have done, so can't imagine where it went. Is it time to worry? Any help would be most appreciated. Thanks gang.
 

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From the pictures i've seen there doesn't seem to be any way the screw could drop out. I'd guess it has wound down past where you can engage it with your allen key. Do you have a small mirror?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mothy-thanks for responding. I don't have a mirror small enough to fit in the space available, unfortunately. I didn't think there was anywhere for it to go, but when I originally installed Fizzers kit, the Allen I used then is the same one I tried just now. Is it possible it has self adjusted down past the point that the Allen will engage it? The short side of the Allen I'm using is approx. 3/4" long and the long side is too long to fit in under the frame spar. If I had a vise, I would try to bend the Allen on the longer side to see if that works. Is it time to worry?
 

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Not having the tensioner apart I can't say for certain. If the engine is not making any metal skipping/slapping/dragging noises i would't worry. How shiny are your butter knives? They can make a great improv mirror for tight spaces...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's a great idea! The motor sounds and runs normal, I just can't figure out why I can no longer engage the screw. I can't even get my only local dealer to order the revision without the noise, so I have to just hope that it's not overly tight. Tomorrow when the suns out, I'll try the butter knife-or something. I'd love to see one of these things disassembled to see how they're put together. Thank you for help, my friend...
 

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My best guess is that it's normal for the adjustment screw to travel down as the tensioner self adjusts, but it's still just a guess! Glad I could be of some help... cheers! :)
 

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One thing I will say is that I have spent 5 minutes or more trying to get the hex in there, and couldn't... I went and took a breather, beat off, had a sandwich, whatever, went back, and boom... got it immediately.

Dunno.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I remember it being hard to engage it, but this was almost too easy this time. And then it just kept turning and turning without ever even starting to feel like it was getting snug, which led me to believe it was either awol or farther down inside than the 3/4" of the Allen could reach. I'm stumped. Tomorrow I'll try Marthy's butter knife suggestion or see if I can't find a small mirror to see down inside that tiny hole and hope that it's still down in there somewhere. This frickin CCT is a pain in my ass...
 

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Can you not get a slightly longer allen wrench ? I had a hard time engaging mine at first. I ended up getting a longer allen key, and after a little playing around i managed to engage it.

I very much doubt its fallen in the engine... Otherwise that really would be a recall situation. Mind you, if Yamaha designed a CCT that comes loose by itself, whats to say it can't do the reverse and overtighten itself ?? However with no noise present how would we be wise to it? until someone took their bike in for a premature cam cogs wearing out ?
 

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My allen wrench was too short from the start. I bought a cheap set and cut the long leg to suit the available space. The short leg is fine for applying the necessary torque to turn the CCT adjuster. The first time I adjusted mine at idle and I found that there was still a slight noise at 3000-4000 rpm. So, I did it again but held the engine at about 3000 rpm while making the adjustment - I could feel the slapping/vibration through the wrench at this engine speed. At about 3000 rpm I found that I only needed very light pressure on the wrench to turn the CCT adjuster another 1/8 to 1/4 turn (it seemed to require more force when I did it at idle); it went very easy. I have not needed to adjust it again but it has only been about 500km since I made the adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I suppose it's possible it has self tightened down past the 3/4" my Allen will reach. I do need to find an Allen that's longer than what I currently have, but short enough to fit in under the frame. I'll play with it again today, but really stumped as to why can't seem to engage the hex anymore. Any suggestions would be much appreciated...
 

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On my 600 mile service last week I asked the shop foreman to order the CCT revision as I did not want to go on a planned 3000+ trip and have problems. I asked the mechanic to see if he could hear anything as my hearing is so bad the it might blow up before I noticed anything. he reported that at 4000 RPM under load it was rattling. The shop foreman was skeptical about Yamaha doing anything about it but after explaining that it was a know issue he agreed to call Yamaha. He received back a prompt reply to replace it but it is back ordered until July 23rd. When I explained that I had a manual adjust solution just in case he said that installing it would void my warranty. I said that I doubted that as when the first cases of this problem cropped up some dealers were doing that fix. Basically I got the impression that he hated my guts for knowing more about the bike than he did. Maybe that comes from being a crotchety old man with no tolerance for stupidity...hehe.
 

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Poke something down to see how deep it is, stiff wire, Q-tip with the fuzzy end cut off, etc, report back here.

No, don't do that lol. The set screw of the Fizzer kit is 25mm right? Turn it in until you feel it lightly "there", how much is still sticking out? Not counting the lock nut and washer. Report back.

If you have a nice Allen key set get a cheaper one, hack saw the long side of a 3mm key short enough to get in there.
 

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From what I have seen on these cct's it would be impossible for the adjuster to fall thru. I would say either your Allen wrench is to short, but you should know if you are not even reaching the adjuster. It's not to far and I suspect this is not the problem...
If you feel the Allen hitting something but can't engage it, my guess would be that the set screw we have in there could have mushroomed in the head of the adjuster... This may be why yami does not approve this method even tho they used it originally.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Poke something down to see how deep it is, stiff wire, Q-tip with the fuzzy end cut off, etc, report back here.

No, don't do that lol. The set screw of the Fizzer kit is 25mm right? Turn it in until you feel it lightly "there", how much is still sticking out? Not counting the lock nut and washer. Report back.



If you have a nice Allen key set get a cheaper one, hack saw the long side of a 3mm key short enough to get in there.
Bob-there's about roughly 1/4" still visible after the nut and washer is locked down-roughly the same as it was before. Is there a lip that the set screw stops at, or does it stop upon contact with the tension screw? When I get home from work I'm gonna poke around in it and see if I can't get a mirror or maybe cut an Allen to try and figure it out. Thanks for the help...
 

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I'm not an expert, haven't seen the inside of a CCT etc, but the top of thing in the CCT that you are putting the 3mm key in looks like the top of a set screw.

Hmm, so 25mm is basically an inch, if you have 1/4 inch of set screw showing then the top of the CCT screw is 3/4 inch deep. Your Allen key needs to reach that far plus the amount it needs to engage the part, um another 1/8th inch or so?

My guess is either your key isn't reaching far enough or you aren't positioning it exactly right.

Looking at my keys I'd say you need more reach, so try what I suggested before about cutting the long end of a key short enough to clear the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm not an expert, haven't seen the inside of a CCT etc, but the top of thing in the CCT that you are putting the 3mm key in looks like the top of a set screw.

Hmm, so 25mm is basically an inch, if you have 1/4 inch of set screw showing then the top of the CCT screw is 3/4 inch deep. Your Allen key needs to reach that far plus the amount it needs to engage the part, um another 1/8th inch or so?


My guess is either your key isn't reaching far enough or you aren't positioning it exactly right.

Looking at my keys I'd say you need more reach, so try what I suggested before about cutting the long end of a key short enough to clear the frame.
Sounds like the Allen is possibly too short now for some reason. It was always hard to engage the hex when I originally adjusted it, but I was still able to find it- why I can't now is my quandary.
 

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This may be a potential problem I foresaw with the fizzer kit.
The Fizzer grub screw damages the hex socket in the CCT plunger because the plunger bangs against it as the chain tension changes.
 
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