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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took my 2020 MT-09 SP in for a routine service yesterday, and also asked that a pair of LED DRLs be wired-in through a supplied h'bar-mounted switch, a job I'm neither willing nor qualified to do. Dealer later advised that he was only prepared to wire the LEDs direct to the battery, stating that if wired in any other way, such as through the ignition (LEDs ON only when IGN on), the ECU may be fried. I found this unacceptable, as although I'd be able to switch the LEDs off with the switch, I may forget and/ or some inquisitive soul may fiddle with the bike and turn the switch and the LEDs on, running-down the battery in no time at all. This is a particular concern, as when touring I often have to leave the bike in an open parking area of a motel or such, and although I've never had any issues there's always a first time.

I will be talking to the dealer later about this, but reflecting on the fact that there are some auxiliary DC connectors on the bike's LHS, under the faux air-scoop, I cannot help wondering why he seems to want to ignore these connectors, which would seem to be there for precisely the purpose I need.

Any comments please chaps? TIA as ever..
 

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I wouldn't add lights to an existing circuit either. I'll side with your dealer on this one.

However, a "workaround" is to wire the lights directly to the battery (fused of course), but use a relay on the power wire. The relay would be controlled by the ignition, so that you couldn't leave the lights on with the bike off.

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The best solution is a Fuzeblock with a switched circuit wire. Every bike I own has one wired in. It is the only thing wired to my battery, then the switched wire connects to my tag light and it is a trigger not a draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thank you both. Not wanting to be difficult here - just frustrated - for I have had many such LED/ DRL installs on most other bikes such as Tracers, Tracer GT, other SPs, with no issues. My previous identical SP had exactly the same set-up as I want on this newer acquisition (only two VIN digits between the two bikes), carried out at the same dealership less than a year ago: what has changed? Also - what is the purpose of the AUX leads on the LHS, as mentioned? I certain do not want to fry the ECU, but would like a satisfactory solution - it's not everyone's taste but I do like the little bit of that extra security feeling from having hi-viz DRLs on my bike.

LATER EDIT: many thanks for the info, blkbrd - I have put it to the dealer and await a response, while not holding my breath ;) ...
 

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Your bike has an aux connection for leds.
But you are taking it to a dealer who are usually 3hours/$300 service monkeys, which means its hard to find one who want to chop into wiring.
Direct to battery is easier for them and doesnt need to cut or splice into wiring, so less risky ( in terms of permanent damage to a wiring harness)
If you were giving them the yamaha aftermarket leds, less reasons for them to say no as it is plug and play, not chop and splice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fanks, keef. If worst comes to worst I will either (a) reluctantly forget about DRLs on this bike, or (b) go the direct-to-battery route and find a hidden location for the switch so that it is less obvious and accessible to would-be tinkerers - but that would then make it more likely that at some point I'd walk away from the bike with DRLs glaring!

I hope the aux connectors are gonna work, but I don't have a lot of confidence in the dealer's service manager, nice young guy tho' he seems to be. I reject the Yamaha LEDs, not that I cannot afford them at $647 plus the necessary mounting hardware kit at another $157 (but both out-of-stock anyway), plus installation, but I don't want to afford them - you know what I mean. The dealer, by the way, has quoted me $130 for the install, which is OK and exactly what I paid for the identical job on my last SP about a year ago - he may have looked-up my service record and gone with that.

I don't want this desire for the DRLs to become an itch that has to be scratched, but with the addition of my BAGSTER seat (on order) the SP will become, IMHO, an excellent little bike for my needs and wants, and complete in every way, and I'd like to reach that point before I'm too old to ride!. :(
 

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I think they dont want to take the legal responsibility of chopping into the oem harness, or making a new harness.
I bought stedi led spotlights, bought yamaha aux connectors on ebay, did some wiring/soldering/crimping, and plugged them in to the aux connector on the harness. But my bike, and i cant sue myself.
Seems like your dealer just wants to attach the wire to the battery and call it done to avoid legal responsibility for "what if".
Whereabouts in qld are you? Any good auto electricians near you?
 

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Took my 2020 MT-09 SP in for a routine service yesterday, and also asked that a pair of LED DRLs be wired-in through a supplied h'bar-mounted switch, a job I'm neither willing nor qualified to do. Dealer later advised that he was only prepared to wire the LEDs direct to the battery, stating that if wired in any other way, such as through the ignition (LEDs ON only when IGN on), the ECU may be fried. I found this unacceptable, as although I'd be able to switch the LEDs off with the switch, I may forget and/ or some inquisitive soul may fiddle with the bike and turn the switch and the LEDs on, running-down the battery in no time at all. This is a particular concern, as when touring I often have to leave the bike in an open parking area of a motel or such, and although I've never had any issues there's always a first time.

I will be talking to the dealer later about this, but reflecting on the fact that there are some auxiliary DC connectors on the bike's LHS, under the faux air-scoop, I cannot help wondering why he seems to want to ignore these connectors, which would seem to be there for precisely the purpose I need.

Any comments please chaps? TIA as ever..
If you decide you want to wire them up via a relay so that's they're tinkerproof I'll be happy to walk you through it. Relays intimidate lots of folks and it's easy to understand since it's a little black box of magic with no real clear explanation on the outside, but once you understand then you'll wonder why you ever thought it'd be difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks very much, Shiny - a kind offer. I am actually a bit familiar with relays, soldering (which I always enjoy doing, tho' I'd never win a prize for neatness!), etc., as I went though all that when installing Skene-style flashing/ pulsing brake-operated rear LEDs on my last few bikes - and lo!, they worked! I'm still talking to the service guy at my dealer's, and will take it from there once he gets back to me. As one of our Premiers here famously remarked - "life wasn't meant to be easy".
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think they dont want to take the legal responsibility of chopping into the oem harness, or making a new harness.
I bought stedi led spotlights, bought yamaha aux connectors on ebay, did some wiring/soldering/crimping, and plugged them in to the aux connector on the harness. But my bike, and i cant sue myself.
Seems like your dealer just wants to attach the wire to the battery and call it done to avoid legal responsibility for "what if".
Whereabouts in qld are you? Any good auto electricians near you?
You are quite right, keef - the guy has openly said a couple of times that he won't cut into anything as it would void the warranty should the ECU suddenly explode! I can understand that...

BMWs - of which I've had a few - have some dreaded electrical system called CAN-BUS, which I took to calling CAN'T BUS as I could neither understand it nor use it in any way! At least Yamaha hasn't gone that way, PTL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Salvation is at hand in the shape of an auto electrician who just happens to live a few hundred metres from me, almost just across the back fence! He will be here bright and early on Wed next week, and will do the job then.

I was quite impressed with his approach as he tried various circuits, the LEDs themselves, and the switch, and he murmured that he'll be able to make a very neat job of it, utilising the lhs aux power connector.

Many thanks to all for inputs, advice, suggestions - I'll post up a few words and pix on the finished job next week.
 

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I wired the lights in my saddle bags directly to the rear brake light wires, appropriate connectors, heat shrink, and they've been working fine for a year. Good luck on yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you! I have also wired-in through the rear brake light - using a POSI-TAP connector, some soldering, and heat shrink tube - a flashing/ pulsing brake warning LED. This is much like the proprietary SKENE product, which is excellent but expensive - but the front LEDs incorporating the switch baffled me.
 

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Took my 2020 MT-09 SP in for a routine service yesterday, and also asked that a pair of LED DRLs be wired-in through a supplied h'bar-mounted switch, a job I'm neither willing nor qualified to do. Dealer later advised that he was only prepared to wire the LEDs direct to the battery, stating that if wired in any other way, such as through the ignition (LEDs ON only when IGN on), the ECU may be fried. I found this unacceptable, as although I'd be able to switch the LEDs off with the switch, I may forget and/ or some inquisitive soul may fiddle with the bike and turn the switch and the LEDs on, running-down the battery in no time at all. This is a particular concern, as when touring I often have to leave the bike in an open parking area of a motel or such, and although I've never had any issues there's always a first time.

I will be talking to the dealer later about this, but reflecting on the fact that there are some auxiliary DC connectors on the bike's LHS, under the faux air-scoop, I cannot help wondering why he seems to want to ignore these connectors, which would seem to be there for precisely the purpose I need.

Any comments please chaps? TIA as ever..
You are correct about the aux feeds under the scoop. I could perform this task myself however in your situation I would take to a more qualified facility
 

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Thank you! I have also wired-in through the rear brake light - using a POSI-TAP connector, some soldering, and heat shrink tube - a flashing/ pulsing brake warning LED. This is much like the proprietary SKENE product, which is excellent but expensive - but the front LEDs incorporating the switch baffled me.
You would have to do some math for the load versus wire size. Best to add a relay depending on load (led vs hid ect)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks, plyn9. I have to confess that I'm more than a bit miffed that the service manager at my local dealership seemed unaware of these aux feeds and had to ask me to take a photo of them and send it to him. It doesn't exactly give me a great sense of confidence... but the local auto electrician does definitely know what he's doing - he will be incorporating a relay into the system - and I'm sure he will give me excellent service, and at the same price as the dealer originally quoted me for the job. I only wish that I was more knowledgeable and confident about working on the bike's lectronics, but I know my own (many!) shortcomings.
 

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It appears that even on the other side of the world true craftsmen are a dying breed. Independent shops and dealerships are now filled with "parts replacers" or people too scared to do ANYTHING that might get them in trouble. That's BS.

For a motorcycle dealership "technician" to not be able to do something as insanely simple as this is disappointing. Computer controlled engines have been around since the late '70's. If you're being paid to work on them and you don't understand what might "blow up" (lol) an ECM, you should be fired. Unfortunately if you fire the person, there's nobody knocking on the dealership door to fill that position. So you put up with substandard workers and disappointed customers. Welcome to the dysfunctional world we now live in.

As far as your lights, it's SUPER easy and I'm sure there's more than enough help on here for you to do it yourself if your buddy falls through or you really want to do it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
All's well that ends well! My near-neighbour auto electrician wired-up the DRL LEDs this morning, doing an excellent and careful job, completing it in exactly one hour of non-stop but not rushed work. He carefully soldered all joints, put a higher-rated fuse into the circuit - 5a vs original 2a - and installed a relay too. I'm pretty sure that the dealer wouldn't have gone to the same trouble. Cost was $120, which is well worthwhile, as I couldn't/ wouldn't have attempted this myself, being electron-phobic.

The outer 'halo' - first photo below - now illuminates along with the parking lights when the ignition is switched on, and the full brighter-than-a thousand-suns effect lights up when the switch is - err - switched on. I'm happy - see and be seen indeed!

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Motorcycle


Tire Vehicle Fuel tank Wheel Automotive fuel system
 
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