Yamaha FZ-09 Forum banner

Break-in-the-Right-Way for the FZ-09

29K views 63 replies 38 participants last post by  LouG 
#1 ·
#2 ·
When I bought my bike,. I trailered it home, drained out all the oil and coolant , then rode it in first gear at redline for 10 minutes.....I recommend that everyone do this as I think this is the only way you can really know that's its truly broken in..
 
#3 ·
If it wasnt winter and not very cold out, what was the purpose of also draining the coolant? I appreciate the initial oil drain, but did the coolant drain actually make a meaningful difference in your breaking it..in...???

Inquiring minds want to know. :cool:
 
#8 ·
This can of worms again...

I did hard break-in, wasn't sure about it first, after all this is my first new vehicule,
but reading a lot on hard break-in convinced me about it.

Oil change at 30miles - very dirty, 60 miles - not so bad, 300 miles - almost clean and 600 miles - same as 300.
Still too low milage to put synth in it, but no oil consumption at all yet, strong pulls.

Be right in the rear wheel of your friend's tuned z1000 while he's thinking he's half a mile away is really priceless...
 
#11 ·
I do a variation of B.

lots and lots of accel/decel, no steady rpm. no extended high rpm, (if you look in the manual for our bikes, it says no extended, not NO high RPM on break in.)
I didn't change the oil till 1k, at which time I went full synth. and 2-3k intervals from then on.

My bike burns 0 oil, leaks 0 oil, and runs like a raped ape.

My 2001 Bandit, on the other hand, I broke in super gently, according to the suzuk manual, and that bike burned oil. After an engine rebuild, I broke the 'new' engine in according to 'B' option, and it never burned or consumed a drop of oil. (well until that cadillac cager killed my bike and almost me)

YMMV, as always.
 
#12 ·
First 100 miles was hard throttle but staying under 6k rpm, then I changed the oil at 150. Rode it hard for another couple hundred miles then started riding normally and changed the oil at 700. I'm now at 1400, I've got no oil consumption and it goes like hell.
 
#16 ·
It really sucks for those w/o The Red bikes engine. They probably need to baby their engine. :cool:
 
  • Like
Reactions: VERSYS8 and 24v
#21 ·
allowing them to spin at .87 times the speed of the regular models wheels....adding 5hp each. Man i'm glad I went graphite :p
You realize that math means your wheels are slower, something all of us orange and red riders already knew :p
 
#26 ·
That's Brilliant.....!!! :hatsoff:
 
#36 ·
agree. this topic is one of those hotly debated in every motorsport. Just change the vehicle and the rest is the same.

The only constant advise I've seen or given pertains to race motors. Give them 3 heat cycles then serious abuse. But even then, the motor is rarely at the same RPM very long. My sidecar motor lives between 7500 to 9500 RPM ('80 GS1100) and constantly changing RPM.

ANyway, these discussions are always entertaining.
 
#35 ·
The designers, engineers, and metalurgists are not the ones that wrote the manual. In fact, that department is guilty of using wording from manuals that were written before they were even born. An engine that burns oil is never considered a failure, thus no money will ever be spent on that type of claim by the manufacturer.
 
#37 · (Edited)
And AGAIN, quoted from the owner's manual.....

"Since the engine is brand new, do not put an excessive load on it for the first 1000 miles. The various parts in the engine wear and polish themselves to the correct operation clearances. During this period, prolonged full-throttle operation or any condition that might result in engine overheating must be avoided"

0-600 Miles: Avoid prolonged operation above 5600 RPM.........change the oil after 600 miles
600-1000 Miles: Avoid prolonged operation above 6800 RPM.

Notice that NO WHERE does it say to not take the engine RPM above those numbers. It says to avoid PROLONGED operation above those numbers. So,....what is the definition of PROLONGED? Please, NO OPINIONS here........just the facts Maam! What does PROLONGED mean in this instance? What EXACTLY do the Yamaha engineers mean by this? Do you know......exactly what they mean.

It seems very clear to me that RPMs above those numbers are OK, just not for..........yep...........PROLONGED periods.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rc racer and Kyler
#42 ·
This is exactly what I've been keeping to with the break in on mine. To me and with my experience with engines, prolonged means banging gears where you don't fall below 5,600 for minuets at a time. I've taken mine up past 9-10,000 a few times but never for more than 10-30 seconds, then I bring it down to a reasonable RPM. I also did my first oil change at 600 miles at which time I cut the oil filter open and inspected what was in there. And for the engine and transmission sharing the same oil and everything being brand new after 600 miles it didn't look bad. I wish I would have had a oil filter magnet on from the word go but such is the way things go. If I were to recommend anything to make sure the engine as a long life, it would be to buy a magnet for the oil filter from the word go.
 
#39 ·
TMI:violent1:
 
#43 ·
Aside from the Key Chain flapping in the wind, and Passing over the Solid White Line in the road, what the F is that Sticker doing there on the tank.....???!!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Belleau1977
#47 ·
Running a modern engine without oil...This is why I never buy second hand bikes!.I ran mine in using my brain..don't run it too hard, don't labor the engine and keep it happy...first service at 1000ks. By the time my motor is even close to burning oil I'm sure I won't be the owner anyway and it will be someone else's problem. So far my engine is as smooth as silk and pulls like a freight train. I guess yamaha have great engineers.
 
#49 ·
Break-in for long life!

Remember the engine is shipped with break in oil. That is why it must be changed by 600 mi. Then go an other 400 mi. per the manual.
Think of it this way. You are polishing metal parts to mate together. So the smoother they fit the tighter the motor.
I would not be surprised at all, to find out the motors with cam-chain tensioner problems were beat with the thin oil in them. Then the filings ended up in the tensioner.
Also it is most important is pay attention to heat cycles. Most haven't heard of this. Bring the engine to full operating temp. riding for a while and let it cool back down to cold. This lets the metal temper in away. Metal molucules migrate. Do this twice a day mornings and evenings and vary the rpm's. Keep an eye on high rpm's .
I put 600 mi. on mine in a week this way, then changed the oil. I could immediately tell they took out the thin stuff and boy was I glad I did not break it in race style!
You should able to tell just by feel, the change in oil weight and the engine freeing up with miles.
I have 1600 mi. on it now and it is as smooth as a sewing machine, also it has no cct rattles. One more thing I was thinking, if people are redlining their motor with thinner break in oil in it , the thin oil can be blown past the seals and depositing filings in the cct thus setting up their problems. " Yamaha I hope you are listening". That ones Free!
 
#50 ·
Remember the engine is shipped with break in oil. That is why it must be changed by 600 mi. Then go an other 400 mi. per the manual.
Think of it this way. You are polishing metal parts to mate together. So the smoother they fit the tighter the motor.
I would not be surprised at all, to find out the motors with cam-chain tensioner problems were beat with the thin oil in them. Then the filings ended up in the tensioner.
Also it is most important is pay attention to heat cycles. Most haven't heard of this. Bring the engine to full operating temp. riding for a while and let it cool back down to cold. This lets the metal temper in away. Metal molucules migrate. Do this twice a day mornings and evenings and vary the rpm's. Keep an eye on high rpm's .
I put 600 mi. on mine in a week this way, then changed the oil. I could immediately tell they took out the thin stuff and boy was I glad I did not break it in race style!
You should able to tell just by feel, the change in oil weight and the engine freeing up with miles.
I have 1600 mi. on it now and it is as smooth as a sewing machine, also it has no cct rattles. One more thing I was thinking, if people are redlining their motor with thinner break in oil in it , the thin oil can be blown past the seals and depositing filings in the cct thus setting up their problems. " Yamaha I hope you are listening". That ones Free!
these engines are shipped and assembled with the same Yamalube oil that you can buy at the dealership.
There is no "break in" oil..
there was also a poll about CCT issues a few months back and it showed that break in method made no difference .....easy or hard break in made no difference..its just a crap shoot as to whether or not you have a problem
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top