Yamaha FZ-09 Forum banner
1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I drive my bike across the country from Indiana down the Rocky Mountains all the way to Phoenix Arizona and I park it at my folks house now I left it on a tender came back a month or so later and the battery was smoked it was a cheap-o I should have never bought from Amazon so I went and bought a brand new battery from the parts store hook everything back up I'm having the same issue which is the bike starts just fine when I'm holding down the starter turns right over fires right up and runs and as long as I hold the starter continues to run but the second I let go of it it kills the bike it doesn't matter if I spring it back hard or if I slowly release it and I know it's in position because I've taken the switch apart twice now completely cleaned it with contact cleaner and greased it I've even left it in the on position and jumped it at the starter relay but now I'm just stumped I've tested the starter relay I'm getting the right ohms resistance across the main coil when I apply 12 volts I hear it click and I know that the starter relay works because so long as I hold switch down it turns it over and fires it right up the second I let go the bike dies if anyone has any insight please I'm at a loss here and I really need to fix the bike...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
I don't have a wiring diagram to go by but it stands to reason that when you press the starter switch 2 things happen.
1) the starter turns the engine over.
2) It also engages the ignition.
Once the engine starts the ignition part of the circuit is being cut so...
Look for a rat, mouse, etc. that has decided that it loves rubber insulation or possibly a loose or corroded connection.
(Once had a damn goat that actually ate a plastic tail light off my motorcycle trailer.)
I rather imagine the same varmint was also the reason for the bad battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
Most likely there's something busted internally with the switch. The wiring going into it is fine since the bike starts and runs when you hold it on Start.
Unless you can take it apart and are able to figure out and fix exactly what's broken, I'd just replace the cluster.
 

·
Registered
2016 xsr 900
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Most likely there's something busted internally with the switch. The wiring going into it is fine since the bike starts and runs when you hold it on Start.
Unless you can take it apart and are able to figure out and fix exactly what's broken, I'd just replace the cluster.
I know it's in position because I've taken the switch apart twice now completely cleaned it with contact cleaner and greased it I've even left it in the on position and jumped it at the starter relay
I doubt it is the 'cut off' switch - its pretty darn simple and the OP said he's already had it apart and cleaned/checked its operation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
452 Posts
I doubt it is the 'cut off' switch - its pretty darn simple and the OP said he's already had it apart and cleaned/checked its operation.
His checks are pointing to a faulty switch.

According to the schematic, in the 'Run' position, two wires are connected. When the switch is moved to 'Start', a different pair of wires is also connected (the starter circuit).
Logically, if the bike only runs in the Start position, then the first pair of wires is not being connected in the Run position. Ergo, something's wrong with the switch.

A continuity test for the Run position would confirm.



Rectangle Font Parallel Pattern Technology
 

·
Registered
2016 xsr 900
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
I can't argue with your logic - @Etherless1 needs a basic digital multi-meter to check the switch to be sure either way, or as you said to buy a new one.

It just seems unlikely that a bike sitting unattended in a garage had the switch suddently stop working for no reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I doubt it is the 'cut off' switch - its pretty darn simple and the OP said he's already had it apart and cleaned/checked its operation.
Yeah there's nothing internally within the switch I haven't had a part and nothing appears broken or busted at all and it operates correctly but how do I perform the continuity test on simply the switch? I have a multimeter I'm just not 100% familiar with how I go about testing individual components like thatA
Bicycle Tire Bicycle frame Bicycle handlebar Crankset
Bicycle Tire Bicycle frame Bicycle handlebar Crankset
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm just so we're clear I have the rest of the assembly in the springs and everything I did take it apart and it was greased up beyond belief and I cleaned it we assembled it twice now and it never works so can I jump the contacts to test that run position or as you said perform the continuity I'm assuming take my testing leads across the two contacts and my checking resistance at that point?
 

·
Registered
2016 xsr 900
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
If you post a picture of your meter I can give you specific instructions on how to set it up.....
But you want to have the switch all assembled, then trace the wires back to where they plug into the main harness and unplug them. You'll test from that plug. Most meters have a continuity test mode that 'beeps'. You should have continuity between the red/white and red/black wires on the plug when the switch is in the 'run' position, and no continuity when it is in the 'off' position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If you post a picture of your meter I can give you specific instructions on how to set it up.....
But you want to have the switch all assembled, then trace the wires back to where they plug into the main harness and unplug them. You'll test from that plug. Most meters have a continuity test mode that 'beeps'. You should have continuity between the red/white and red/black wires on the plug when the switch is in the 'run' position, and no continuity when it is in the 'off' position.
I'm confused but I think you're saying follow the plug back and then insert the testing probes into the back of the plug correct? And I have it reassembled
Communication Device Telephony Gadget Telephone Audio equipment
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,396 Posts
I have struck this problem a few times in old cars. Power to the ignition coil only while cranking.
I'd test the ignition output from the switch on start and run positions, but you may also have to check voltage at the coils.
 

·
Registered
2016 xsr 900
Joined
·
1,596 Posts
Communication Device Gadget Automotive tire Audio equipment Mobile phone

On your DMM:
Black lead to the -/com plug
Red lead to teh + plug
turn the dial to the circled setting.
Press the 'Sel' button till you see the little 'sound waves' icon on the screen.
If you touch the red and black probes together you should hear a beep from your meter.

ON the bike
Put the switch back together.
Find the place where the switch plugs into the main harness
Unplug that plug, so the switch isn't connected to the bike wiring
Red lead to the red/white wire in the plug
Black lead to the red/black wire in the plug.
Doesn't matter if you use the 'back' or 'front' of the plug - whichever is easier to get the probes to stay in is fine, so long as they are making good contact.

Move the switch to 'off' - there should be no beep.
Move the switch to 'run' - there should be a beep.
Move the switch to 'start' - there should be a beep.

any other result indicates that the switch is bad (or the wires between the plug and the switch are broken).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,396 Posts
I'd like to nominate him for VMP as well. Very Modest Person.
 
  • Love
Reactions: Budo

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update:

Since I'm waiting for a new switch which is on backorder from the manufacturer I reassembled mine, did the continuity test and everything tested fine. And in the process I lost the springs that caused the switch to return to the run position which was causing the engine to die so I put it back together and started it and was able to have it run as the switch was not returning. But if I attempted to drive it that way, letting the clutch out while in gear killed it. I'm assuming because the starter motor was running continuously. But I did notice another symptom, there's a high pitch whine, an electrical type of whine, coming from under the tank. Is that off the actual starter solenoid do you think? This starts as soon as I turn the ignition to the on position and continues regardless of the position of the starter / kill switch...

Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated thanks!

Also I have a video but can't figure out how to post it..
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top