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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So i took off my rear wheel today. and when i wanted to align the rear axle to the chain there was a major difference between the Motion Pro Chain Alignment tool vs the markings on the adjusting blocks. when you align the rear axle based on the adjusting block markings the motion pro tool would indicate that the rear axle is skewed to the right.

So then i tweak both the adjustment nuts so that the motion pro tool aligns with the chain but it gave me these reading that are off (see pictures below) on the axle blocks.

which one should i trust. right now i have it set to where i am going by the motion pro tool. any thought or suggestions? how do you guys do your axle to chain alignments?



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Discussion Starter #3
You can see for yourself that the MotionPro tool is what's accurate. I haven't trusted axle blocks for a long time. Close may be OK for atomic bombs...
yea but i had to stare at the rod in the tool at the back of the bike really hard and sometimes it making me cross eyed. and the rod is too short, i wished the length would be 3x longer then it would be easier to visually check the alignment.
 

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I use a shorty piece of tape measure and measure how far my adjuster nuts are away from the front of the adjuster block I get it pretty much dead nuts every time. I don’t pay attention the the markings but every time I’m done I look at the markings and they are pretty close
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I use a shorty piece of tape measure and measure how far my adjuster nuts are away from the front of the adjuster block I get it pretty much dead nuts every time. I don’t pay attention the the markings but every time I’m done I look at the markings and they are pretty close
does that make the rear axle align 90 degree from the chain?

i was hoping when i aligned the motion pro tool with the chain that the axle block notches would match each other fairly close but it did not. it is almost two notches away form each other. is anyone getting this difference with their bike when they do their alignment?



 

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Discussion Starter #6
i don't know how accurate this is.

 

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Discussion Starter #7
i'll try the measuring the swing arm pivot to rear axle method. i love youtube by the way, i hardly watch tv anymore lol

 
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So i took off my rear wheel today. and when i wanted to align the rear axle to the chain there was a major difference between the Motion Pro Chain Alignment tool vs the markings on the adjusting blocks. when you align the rear axle based on the adjusting block markings the motion pro tool would indicate that the rear axle is skewed to the right.

So then i tweak both the adjustment nuts so that the motion pro tool aligns with the chain but it gave me these reading that are off (see pictures below) on the axle blocks.

which one should i trust. right now i have it set to where i am going by the motion pro tool. any thought or suggestions? how do you guys do your axle to chain alignments?



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You convinced me. I ordered the MP tool last night. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #9

this thing is pretty accurate. this guy made a machined rod that fit exactly in to the axle hole and swing arm pivot hole.
 

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My markings are quite close to right but not exact. I spent ages using the string method to get it as close to perfect as I could and the marks were 1 or 2 mm out. I now align the wheel with a vernier caliper on the adjuster blocks.
 
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Factory notches Have always been a litte off on my bikes. I have not used the MP tool yet but looks way easier to do than using string. I know my factory block and my TST block dont match exactly. Yamaha skimped on the suspension so I don't have much faith in the exactness of their axle block marks!
 

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There are always production tolerances. You start adding up the swingarm pivot to adjuster slot and axle block, you could easily be off from side to side. The MotionPro tool is soooooo damned easy. I like easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
i'm going to try something. i'll put a laser pointer on top of that thing. now if only i can find my laser pointer.


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Yup, one of the first normal "bike owner" things I learned when i started riding was to not trust those tick marks. I used to do the yarn thing, but have gotten less anal about it in my day and just go with the MP tool as well. I haven't compared to the tick marks but i'll probably do that tonight just to see. My chain is getting loose on me.
 
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
yea the laser pointer did not work. i found out that the laser pointer is shooting the beam skewed. i think i'll just roughly align it with the motion pro tool even though i will have cock eye trying to do so.

but if you do want a laser pointer made specifically for chain alignment look at profi CAT laser

 

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I've been watching this thread with interest.
I've also got the MP tool that I haven't used on the MT09, yet.
What about finding a longer pointer? Maybe a welding rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've been watching this thread with interest.
I've also got the MP tool that I haven't used on the MT09, yet.
What about finding a longer pointer? Maybe a welding rod.
i tried looking for a straight rod and i did find some that were long enough but they flex and when i inspected them closely, some were minutely bowed which could affect the outcome. you would need a perfectly straight and stiff rod that is 4mm dia. the ones i found where small and bigger in dia not the 4mm that is needed.
 

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This is what I use. Shamrock posted this method quite some time ago and I was sold!


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i tried looking for a straight rod and i did find some that were long enough but they flex and when i inspected them closely, some were minutely bowed which could affect the outcome. you would need a perfectly straight and stiff rod that is 4mm dia. the ones i found where small and bigger in dia not the 4mm that is needed.
I was just about to throw out an old aerial off my daughter's Fiesta which is 4mm diameter, pretty stiff and long enough. I think I might give that a try.
 

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I use the MP tool, if you're having a hard time seeing it straight take a few more steps back and look or pivot the rod down and see where it lies. It doesnt have to be 100% perfect.
 
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