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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Like a bunch of others here, I found Yamaha's placement of the FZ-09 horn button counter-intuitive and just plain hard to use. WHY did they change something that worked fine where it is on 1,000,000 other bikes?
Others have gone to the trouble and expense of exchanging the OEM left handlebar switch for those from different motorcycles such as a Ninja 650, Triumph, etc...

Living in the USA, the flash-to-pass button is more of a novelty than anything else to me. Noone around here recognizes what it means to blink the high beam to let them know you'd like to come around.
That got me to wondering: If that "trigger" switch is so easy to use vs. the horn button, why not swap the wiring out and have the flash-to-pass switch sound the horn and the old horn button become the flash-to-pass?

I took my left handlebar switch housing apart very carefully and found the two sets of contacts inside each switch are virtually identical in size and material. Thus this project began.
All I needed were a couple of short pieces of suitably gauged wire to extend the flash button wires, some solder, heat shrink tubing, soldering iron, solder and a #2 JIS cross head screwdriver.

Pictures are worth 1,000 words, they say. So, here's the mod.
Once the two black phillips-head screws holding the switch housing are removed and it split apart, you can pull it free from the bar. Unplugging the clutch interlock switch helps free it up, too.

IMG_7909.JPG IMG_7910.JPG IMG_7911.JPG IMG_7914.JPG IMG_7916.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Part II
IMG_7917.JPG IMG_7918.JPG IMG_7920.JPG IMG_7921.jpg
All done!
Cost?
Maybe $0.25.
I had everything on hand already.
So, free for me.
;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Note: If you are like me and want to test the function of the switches before putting it all back together on the handlebar, the contact plate for the high/low beam switch is just barely held in place without everything bolted up.
When I first tested my bike after the soldering was done, my high beam didn't work! $#@!
That's when I remembered this contact plate. I held it in place and tried again.
Everything worked fine.
Whew!
IMG_7920b.JPG
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great write up, I plan to do this too...Thanks!
Thank you!
It took me a little over an hour because I stopped to take pictures, answer the neighbor kids' questions and didn't have three hands for the soldering part. I'd have asked the kids to help. But, somehow I didn't think "Mom" would want her two under-8 daughters messing with hot soldering irons. :D
 
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Great mod. Silly question... I would assume these wires run into a connector somewhere. What about switching the pins around in the connector. Might be easier for those of us who suck at soldering. :D
 

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very clever and a great idea, then a potential improvement by using the cable..somewhere.... Is Yamaha sending you a reward for clever engineering ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great mod. Silly question... I would assume these wires run into a connector somewhere. What about switching the pins around in the connector. Might be easier for those of us who suck at soldering. :D
I thought about that and realized that, even though the switch contacts are the virtually same and thus able to handle either electrical load (horn or high beam), the wires are different gauges. The horn ones are smaller than the headlamp ones. Would it really make a difference considering how briefly either function would be used?
Very likely not.
That said, the pin switch idea is a very good one!
But, I like to tinker and this was today's project. =)

What would get swapped?
If the wires in my photo here are the same color at the same connector:
The plain brown wire + the black with white (horn) for the white with yellow and red with yellow.
I would thoroughly test each to be absolutely sure before swapping them at the connector and one would do so at their own risk.
wiring swap.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Warning/caution!!!
If I am guessing correctly, this is likely the same connector where the headlamp recall is done and you would have to be 100% sure you didn't cross anything up. Fried harnesses are not cheap.
 

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You have to be sure you don't cross anything up either way - but I think pulling pins from the connector and pushing them into different slots would still be easier, and reversible. Just sayin... Sorry I didn't think of mentioning it before. I plan on getting a different switch and putting a Yamaha connector onto it. Unfortunately, my house was broken into last Thursday and I have to replace a couple of TV's, cell phone, lap top... Nothing taken - just destroyed... But it means no bike upgrades for a while - maybe Santa will get me a switch...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You have to be sure you don't cross anything up either way - but I think pulling pins from the connector and pushing them into different slots would still be easier, and reversible. Just sayin... Sorry I didn't think of mentioning it before. I plan on getting a different switch and putting a Yamaha connector onto it. Unfortunately, my house was broken into last Thursday and I have to replace a couple of TV's, cell phone, lap top... Nothing taken - just destroyed... But it means no bike upgrades for a while - maybe Santa will get me a switch...
***
The solder job was easy for me. I had everything on hand and it really was a matter of unsolder the four wires and swap 'em. They are nice and separated, plus I took "before" photos in case I needed a reference. I could do another one in 20 minutes.
After having a bad experience with one of the headlight hold down bolts, I'm hesitant to take it of again without a real need-need.
The 4mm hex on the right side rounded out on me and I ended up grabbing it with a small pair of vice grips to get it loose. Then I had to order a new bolt. In the mean time, I realized I'd lost the washer somehow. The bolt was $1 something and the washer $2 something. Geez. LOL
...

Aw, man! Sorry to hear about the break-in!! That sucks!
Nothing taken just destroyed?

We had a guy bring in his son's CBR1000 several years ago that had been beaten to death with a ball bat.
There wasn't anything on the bike that wasn't damaged. Wheels, bodywork,engine, tank, etc... all had been hit.
It was a write-off. Turned out the son's ex had done it. =(
 

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With the connector down line, I can easily put it back to stock when I sell the bike by using the second connector.
 

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I thought about that and realized that, even though the switch contacts are the virtually same and thus able to handle either electrical load (horn or high beam), the wires are different gauges. The horn ones are smaller than the headlamp ones. Would it really make a difference considering how briefly either function would be used?
Very likely not.
That said, the pin switch idea is a very good one!
pin swapping seems like a good idea....until you take a closer look at the wiring diagram:



71 is the horn, 72 is the horn switch, and 74 is the flash switch.

the reason why pin swapping doesn't work is because the wires going into the connector are not the same wires going to their respective switches. look at the horn - it's electrically 'inside' the switch cluster, whereas the headlight is outside. the flash to pass switch 'bypass' of the hi/low beam switch is also inside the switch cluster. if you were to swap that purple wire going into 72 with the red/white into 74, and swap the black wire with the yellow wire, you'll end up blowing fuses when you hit the flash to pass (pulling the red/white wire directly to ground), and when you hit the horn button, both the horn and high beam will activate (they end up wired in series) and probably blow a fuse as well.

swapping and soldering the wires inside the switch cluster as you've done is the best/cleanest correct way to do this mod.
 

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Maybe its just me, the horn is dumb, no one can hear it... The flash to pass button though is a great way to get those idiots that can't see us as they are turning left to actually then see us.... I flash that thing daily and repeatedly! People see me all the time when I do that! Works much better than a "meep meep"... Food for thought before hacking up the wiring...
 

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This is a great idea, old thread, but glad I stumbled across it. I hate the stock horn button location and just upgraded the horns so I plan on getting some good use out of them this season!
 

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I ran a new wire from under the seat to the flash-to-pass ..eliminating the flash-to-pass wires and placed my wire I ran up to it and connected my garage door opener under the seat..
 

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Thanks for bumping this old thread.
This is definitely something I'm going to do. I never use that flash to pass feature anyway.
 
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