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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up my 2015 Fz-09 on Thursday. I am planning on cutting off somewhere between 3/4 - 1" off each side of the handlebars and move everything in about 1.5" on each side. I would like to replace the bar end weights with a weight that extends inside the bar but only sticks out past the end of the bar less than a half inch on each side. Something like a 6" long lead bolt perhaps? The purpose is to narrow the bars for lane splitting in California. I have been looking online but have yet to find anything. I would appreciate being pointed in the right direction, someone from California must have thought of this already. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I did research this some more last night. I read about liquid bar snake but I think it has been discontinued. Motocrossers suggest packing the bar with small plastic bb's and or lead shot.

If I do not find a better solution I will probably chop off 1/2 to 3/4" off each side of the bars. Then I will pack the bars with plastic pellets. Then I will put a large bolt in each side. I will also put gel grips on. This is about the best I can come up with at the moment. The stock width is 32.25" with bar weights so I think I can get that down to 28".
 

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I had a 2012 Honda NC700x that came with internal handlebar weights. If you go to a Honda dealer and have them call up the parts fiche for the NC700X you could see if those parts could be adapted for your bike. As to the other options, I've heard of people using BBs, but not the plastic ones. The people I know of that did that used regular metal BBs.
I believe the part that can be installed in handlebars is called a bar snake or a handlebar snake, and I think they still make them. I've never heard it called liquid snake. I believe Liquid Snake is the name of a drain cleaner :)

Hope this helps,
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I thought the same but some of the mx racers say the plastic bbs packed in there (some say to fill it with silicon too) make the bars resonate less because they are no longer hollow inside. I am waiting for my shorty levers to arrive, then I will try riding without the weights and see how bad it is. I ripped the bar end weights of my Dorsoduro and it is fine without them. My Ninja 500 was a different story, without weights that bike was horrendous and even tingled through grip puppies over gel grips. I am trying to not go the grip puppy route, I like the feel of smaller grips without a layer of foam over them.

The FZ is 24" wide at the pegs, the engine down low under 20", tank is under 18", 22" wide at my knees sitting upright. 24" bars would be ideal to split, but not for leverage. I think a 27 to 28" bar width with no weights sticking out would work well yet still provide plenty of leverage. It all depends on where the control levers end up though :)

Plastic bb' don't weight anything, lead shot would be better. Or you could fill the bars with molten lead or depleted uranium. At what point is the bike wider than the bars? That would be unfortunate, kind of like cutting off a cats whiskers.


Barsnake


Ride Safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had a 2012 Honda NC700x that came with internal handlebar weights. If you go to a Honda dealer and have them call up the parts fiche for the NC700X you could see if those parts could be adapted for your bike. As to the other options, I've heard of people using BBs, but not the plastic ones. The people I know of that did that used regular metal BBs.
I believe the part that can be installed in handlebars is called a bar snake or a handlebar snake, and I think they still make them. I've never heard it called liquid snake. I believe Liquid Snake is the name of a drain cleaner :)

Hope this helps,
Bob
Cool, I will look for the parts fiche online for the nc700x. I was actually checking that bike out. I wanted to rip the lid off the trunk over the tank and put Cecil in it, but it was too small and the bike was a little tame for me. :)

I saw the liquid bar snake listed on their website but it shows up as unavailable, and I read somewhere else that they discontinued it. I do not know how effective a standard bar snake is with tapered handlebars. Their website recommended the liquid version for tapered bars.
 

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If use silicone if it were me. Basically creates a vibration damper.
 
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Silicone if you really need it, or use something like these that have rubber sleeves inside the bar, are short, and look good.

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I lanesplit on my fz09 all the time, as well as my BMW R1100RT with large, wide saddlebags. No problem and no need to narrow my handlebars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys for the silicone suggestions, I think I have it all worked out. I will chop 1/2" off the bars. I will buy some threaded steel rod that fits the threads on the inside of the bars and I will put them in as far as they will go. Then I will cut them down just a little shorter and cut a screw head into them. Then I will fill the bars with silicone and screw the threaded shaft in with some loctite until they both inside just a little bit further than the end of the bars (the excess silicone should get forced out the small switch cover holes if I remove them first). Then I will epoxy the bar ends and sand the epoxy flat until the ends of the bars are smooth and then coat the end of the bars with a black plastidip. When I put the grips back on they will be flush with the ends of the bars.This will bring the bar width down from 32" with weights to 28". That is the best I can do using the stock bars.

Reducing the width is not necessary to lane split, however it is necessary to lane split effectively in non freeway environments - and especially so in Los Angeles County. There are many situations where a 32" set of bars is not going to get through. My Ninja 500 would sail through Santa Monica Blvd in extra heavy rush hour traffic whereas my Dorsuduro with a similar handlebar width to the FZ-09 would not make it through. My Ninja with it's narrow bars and profile would squeek through with as little as 2' between the cars.
 

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IF you're filling with silicone, you won't need loctite... Maybe you haven't used it much before, but silicone is extremely strong, and will grip the steel rod all you'd ever need and then some...

I'm confused as to why you're going through all that effort to add a solid bar in there, though. The silicone by itself will give you plenty of buzz-resistance. You either need to add mass, or put in an insulating material (silicone). You really don't need both.
 
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