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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Installing the graves set and in the instructions they don't say anything about leaving or removing the reed valves. What have the the rest of you done? I'm assuming I need the rubber gasket part left in but does it matter one way or the other if the system is inactive?

Thanks
 

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Remove them. I installed mine but forgot to take the valve out. I removed them to do it right and could see where the valve hardware left a nice mark on the underside of the plate.
 

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I left mine in...but honestly don't know if that is technically correct or not. I can't imagine it hurting anything.....but I'm no expert and hopefully some others will come along and "enlighten" us whether it makes any difference or not.
 

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If mine were touching on the underside I would say there's a very strong possibility of not getting a total seal. It may not cause any problems, but the correct way to do it on any bike is to remove them.
 

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STG has an install video and they tell you not to remove anything except the cover...so I would take that to mean leave the valves in

video is here..... skip to 16:30 for the pertinent info

 
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STG has an install video and they tell you not to remove anything except the cover...so I would take that to mean leave the valves in

video is here..... skip to 16:30 for the pertinent info

Its weird that in the video they do not show the 2 small screws that should be there on top of the valve. That is what will hit the block off plate.
 

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You are correct. But having them make changing spark plugs 100x easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the responses guys. I just chose to remove the metal covers only and leave the rest. I figure that blocked is blocked and the system is no longer active using either method. The install was way easier than I anticipated and they do remove a bit of clutter. I went out for a ride and to my surprise there is still a fair amount of decel sputtering. I am running an M4 and have tested for leaks in which there are none. Have others here had the same result? Is this maybe just a condition of running lean and something a fuel controller will fix? Thanks for the help thus far.
 

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Is there any reason to install these plates over just plugging, or joining, the two holes? I removed the valve and all the hoses, but I just ran a hose from one hole to the other. Didn't cost me anything and was super easy.
 

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Is there any reason to install these plates over just plugging, or joining, the two holes? I removed the valve and all the hoses, but I just ran a hose from one hole to the other. Didn't cost me anything and was super easy.

little bit cleaner with the plates is all, easiest method is to just plug the line that goes to the airbox
 

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little bit cleaner with the plates is all, easiest method is to just plug the line that goes to the airbox
I removed as much as I could as I figured the engine might cool a little better with less crap surrounding it. Same with the evap canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So does anyone else still experience the popping/sputtering after installing plates and running the M4? It's not nearly as bad as with AIS active but on a pretty decent decel when the engine braking is strong the issue is there. That's why I was wondering if I put the plates on correctly with the reed valves present vs absent. If its just due to a lean condition then I may take advantage of the vcyclenut flash as he has an M4 map option and it's cheaper than a fuel controller.
 

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So does anyone else still experience the popping/sputtering after installing plates and running the M4? It's not nearly as bad as with AIS active but on a pretty decent decel when the engine braking is strong the issue is there. That's why I was wondering if I put the plates on correctly with the reed valves present vs absent. If its just due to a lean condition then I may take advantage of the vcyclenut flash as he has an M4 map option and it's cheaper than a fuel controller.
Im certainly not telling you not to get my flash, lol

but im betting you have a leak at the connection of the slip on, If its popping its getting fresh air from some where.

Seriously about the flash, the throttle maps alone make it way more then worth it,
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well I used high temp silicone at the joint as per the instructions and the clamp is tightened down quite a bit (about 10ft lbs.). When I plug the end with a towel to create heavy back pressure I don't hear any air noises. I'm currently riding with the baffle in and haven't tried it with the baffle out yet. Do you think there would be any difference? Even though the AIS is disconnected and blocked could there still be fresh air entering from there?
 
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