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Discussion Starter #21
The air filter change is negligible ,the stock filter flows good ,most people change to an aftermarket because they are reusable
If someone is trying to show a modification or part gained or loss on the dyno, they can only change one thing at a time. Whether it is thought that the second item is insignificant or not, that second change has altered the results of the test and therefore rendered the outcome of said dyno test inaccurate.
 

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I did those dyno runs to find the max gains from the air box at 100% throttles I was not interested in knowing the gains of each mod, with these mods there are small gains up top at 100% throttles.

But you lose torque at part throttles with less air speed through the air box in the lower revs for everyday riding with the snorkel cut out, this can be felt just from swapping the two lids over that I have, I never measured the torque difference on the Dyno as it was only a few years later on my 3rd 09 that I went back to the mod & tested the two lids looking for torque not HP,I have one cut out snorkel & one Standard lid & can feel the torque difference in the lower rpm 2500 to 3500rpm between the lids no filter change with the snorkel in installed I can feel more torque at part throttle in the lower RPM's.
 

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Drilling the airbox of my XVS1300 gave me the impression of a 10% midrange bump, with a 100% bump in noise. Absolutely ear-splitting.

Next came the tinnitus, then the baffles to tame the noise. Then came a fuel processor to eliminate my fear of a lean mixture, which required me to disconnect the O2 sensor, which resulted in a broken connector, which thankfully did not result in any trouble codes.

Don't do it. Just spend some time riding in "B" mode until your internal sensors are reset, and then go back to Standard or A.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I did those dyno runs to find the max gains from the air box at 100% throttles I was not interested in knowing the gains of each mod, with these mods there are small gains up top at 100% throttles.

But you lose torque at part throttles with less air speed through the air box in the lower revs for everyday riding with the snorkel cut out, this can be felt just from swapping the two lids over that I have, I never measured the torque difference on the Dyno as it was only a few years later on my 3rd 09 that I went back to the mod & tested the two lids looking for torque not HP,I have one cut out snorkel & one Standard lid & can feel the torque difference in the lower rpm 2500 to 3500rpm between the lids no filter change with the snorkel in installed I can feel more torque at part throttle in the lower RPM's.
I was not addressing you in particular, I was simply clarifying that if 'someone' is trying to show a modification or part gained or lost on the dyno, they can only change one thing at a time. The example/link (your dyno charts) provided by someone other than you, who was trying to confirm a gain in HP from the air box modification and was not accurate data for my original question.

I was in no way trying to imply what you were performing the dyno runs for. I appreciate you uploading the dyno charts and I like your write up explaining what you experienced with the mods you completed.
 

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I was not addressing you in particular, I was simply clarifying that if 'someone' is trying to show a modification or part gained or lost on the dyno, they can only change one thing at a time. The example/link (your dyno charts) provided by someone other than you, who was trying to confirm a gain in HP from the air box modification and was not accurate data for my original question.

I was in no way trying to imply what you were performing the dyno runs for. I appreciate you uploading the dyno charts and I like your write up explaining what you experienced with the mods you completed.
No offence taken at all, just wanted to clarify what I was targeting in my testing.
 

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Not the vid I wanted to post but there is some older guy I think that shows up in Cycle World mag and explains this better but both came to the same conclusion ....
 

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Dyno results are subjective. Every tuner is going to have their preference. For example, on my sportbike... I've had one tuner recommend short stacks, another coned stacks, another OEM, another with certain stacks and an airbox mod, etc. etc. And each tuner is going to claim one set-up is better than another and they're going to throw their best numbers at you as proof but when you get your own dyno/numbers they're different.
 

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back in 2014 I did back to back tests

clean stock filter vs K&N vs DNA

the DNA showed a small gain the K&N showed none

I then modified the snorkel and front cover like I recommend in my ecu removal instructions in the garage section of my website and saw another small gain


unfortunately this was before I had my own dyno and I have no way to go back and get the graphs


I just recently tested the short v stacks and I would not recommend replacing the 3 factory length stacks with all short ones


the air box mod is certainly not a game changer and as with any mod you should do what your comfortable with


those worried about water intrusion I would say compared to any sport bike with ram air the modded air box still has a much less chance of getting water in it
 

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Anyone here knows fluid dynamics to explain what's the purpose of that snorkel thingy? I did shorten mine as David said. Hard to tell really if it changed anything after getting exhaust and flash at the same time. It pulls harder everywhere for sure. Maybe I'll glue it back when I'm bored and compare 😁 wouldn't the straightest path be the best?
 

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Anyone here knows fluid dynamics to explain what's the purpose of that snorkel thingy? I did shorten mine as David said. Hard to tell really if it changed anything after getting exhaust and flash at the same time. It pulls harder everywhere for sure. Maybe I'll glue it back when I'm bored and compare 😁 wouldn't the straightest path be the best?
The varying lengths are made that way in consideration of the engine design / firing order.
Here's an FZ07 animation for example to show you airflow and how stack length affects how air enters the engine.

The triples fire in a 3-2-1 order so the stacks are designed in a 3-2-1 variation. On an i4 (for example on my ZX10R) the stacks are a 1-2-2-1 variation. Two short & two tall stacks. The engine fires both A or B pistons at the same time so there's only 2 types of stacks accordingly.
 

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I did the air box mod,the 3 short intake funnels ,and a modified know filter ,all three things gained about 1/10th of a second in the quarter mile.it was worth it for me at the track but I don't think you would notice a difference on the street
3 intake funnel mods ? Where did you get that
 

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Not really needed ! Not going to get better than the stock factory air box ! A lot of R&D goes into the factory air box for the motor configuration!

My point is that if you wanted to test it out for yourself you could inexpensively.
 
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