[MASTAFLY]

Hi Guys I have a 2018 MT09. Recently I had the front tire replaced. When I put the wheel back on I didn't realize that I put the side with the abs sensor on the opposite side. I didn't take the bike out right away but when I did the light came on, I rode it a total of about 20 miles before realizing the wheel was put on wrong, I swapped it with the correct direction of the tire with the abs sensor on the right hand side but the lights still persist. I unhooked the battery and reconnected and that didn't clear it either, any other way to get into diagnostic mode to clear it?

I noticed when I initially put the wheel back on and rolled the bike I heard a clinking sound as if something was being rubbed/not spinning freely. Now even with the wheel and ABS sensor on correctly there is still a slight clink when I am riding the bike but not when I am moving it around myself.

I also unscrewed the abs sensor and put it back to see if that would clear it. I am thinking maybe the abs speed rotor or the sensor itself got ate up when it was on the wrong side? Thoughts before I go out and purchase one or the other?

Thanks!

 

[vcyclenut]

yes, im guessing you damaged the sensor or it is misaligned , get a service manual and see if they give you a testing procedure for the sensor itself or see if it looks misaligned. if its clicking something is not correct

 

[GreatHolio]

Also to note, I did a brake pad replacement... and when I went to put everything back together, I followed the service manual. Per the service manual, I installed the clamp/washer bracket thinguie that both acts as a clamp and washer for the speed sensor in the correct order. However, as soon as I took off, the traction control went haywire and the TCS light was blinking like an Xmas tree.

I had my suspicions the manual was wrong cause the fit was not perfect. I rearranged the order of washer/sensor, the fit felt perfect, and back on the road I go and no more haywire TCS.

So... if you followed the service manual for reassembly...

I should have noted, and for future service, WILL NOTE, the order that shitz is removed and reassemble according to this. I won't blindly trust the service manual anymore.

 

[MASTAFLY]

yes, im guessing you damaged the sensor or it is misaligned , get a service manual and see if they give you a testing procedure for the sensor itself or see if it looks misaligned. if its clicking something is not correct

Yeah it doesn't appear to be visually misaligned but I'm almost certain it got misaligned, I think i'll order the speed sensor rotor first and see where that gets me and then try the actual sensor next.

 

[GreatHolio]

Also to note... I am not speaking from experience here... but it is possible your TCS is steady on due to code stored on ECU. You might need to get an ODBII scanner and adapter for the Yam ODBII connector and just clear the code.

I built a harness adapter and used my regular automobile ODBII scanner to clear a Check Engine light ( SUCK IT DEALERS, YOU AIN'T CHARGING ME FOR A SIMPLE CHECK ENG LIGHT CLEARING ) and all is peachy.

 

[MASTAFLY]

Also to note, I did a brake pad replacement... and when I went to put everything back together, I followed the service manual. Per the service manual, I installed the clamp/washer bracket thinguie that both acts as a clamp and washer for the speed sensor in the correct order. However, as soon as I took off, the traction control went haywire and the TCS light was blinking like an Xmas tree.

I had my suspicions the manual was wrong cause the fit was not perfect. I rearranged the order of washer/sensor, the fit felt perfect, and back on the road I go and no more haywire TCS.

So... if you followed the service manual for reassembly...

I should have noted, and for future service, WILL NOTE, the order that shitz is removed and reassemble according to this. I won't blindly trust the service manual anymore.

I did not follow the service manual as I do not have one. I did find posts about the sensor bracket being installed wrong sometimes but mine was never an issue and I took it off and put it back on in case that was an issue.

 

[MASTAFLY]

Also to note... I am not speaking from experience here... but it is possible your TCS is steady on due to code stored on ECU. You might need to get an ODBII scanner and adapter for the Yam ODBII connector and just clear the code.

I built a harness adapter and used my regular automobile ODBII scanner to clear a Check Engine light ( SUCK IT DEALERS, YOU AIN'T CHARGING ME FOR A SIMPLE CHECK ENG LIGHT CLEARING ) and all is peachy.

My dad has a obd2 reader, what is this harness adapter? how do I know whether it will have support for the bike?

 

[GreatHolio]

Yamaha has a 4 pin connector to connect to Yamaha proprietary USB dongle. You have to either buy this proprietary dongle from Yam, or go to stealership where they will charge you for a simple clearing a code in the ECU.

It is possible to make a harness that connects the Yam 4 pin to the 16 pin connector ODBII standard. See this thread:

OBD2 diagnostic tool for clearing faults

2. Yamaha diagnostic plug to ODB2 - $30.00 Yamaha MT09 2017 Yamaha 4-pin to OBD2 Diagnostic Plug. | eBay That's pretty slick ... can't seem to find others on eBay or else were.

www.fz09.org

I'll post a pic of mine for reference when I get home.

My ODBII scanner is a BlueDriver Scan Tool. At first it did not read the Yam MonsTah-09. I had to go to my car, do a firmware update and BINGO... It read the codes from the MonsTah-09 and cleared them. This was done 2 weeks ago for a time reference.

 

[GreatHolio]

The ODBII standard is standard for all motor vehicles. Of course manufacturers have also added on top of the standard, their own specialty systems and codes. But the basic ODBII stuff should still be there. So any basic ODBII scanner tool should be able to read the standard fault codes and clear them. They may not read the Yam specific codes... but the standard ODBII, PHO SHO!

 

[psycoreefer]

The ODBII standard is standard for all motor vehicles. Of course manufacturers have also added on top of the standard, their own specialty systems and codes. But the basic ODBII stuff should still be there. So any basic ODBII scanner tool should be able to read the standard fault codes and clear them. They may not read the Yam specific codes... but the standard ODBII, PHO SHO!

Yes a standard reader can read/clear the code, however the plug for connecting the reader is different on the bike than it is on cars. On cars the connecter is the same across all brands, but I guess that isn't a requirement for Motorcycles. If you use an adapter (it isn't anything special just wires and the right shaped plugs) then any standard OBDII reader should work.

 

[Screan29]

Theres a proper distance for the ABS sensor. Mine was not seated correctly (couldn't tell by visual inspection) by the dealer, caused my light to stay on. It also caused my traction control to activate randomly (even when "off")

 

[MASTAFLY]

Theres a proper distance for the ABS sensor. Mine was not seated correctly (couldn't tell by visual inspection) by the dealer, caused my light to stay on. It also caused my traction control to activate randomly (even when "off")

I ordered a new speed rotor sensor. In the meantime I will take my original one off and see if I can put it back on. Do you know what the correct distance is? Or did reseating it fix your issue?

 

[RichBinAZ]

What is the gap on the rear sensor?
Make it the same??

 

[Screan29]

I ordered a new speed rotor sensor. In the meantime I will take my original one off and see if I can put it back on. Do you know what the correct distance is? Or did reseating it fix your issue?

It corrected my issue reseating it. There was an abundance of assembly line preventing its proper seat. Dealer had to clear the light as I couldn't get it to go off. If you heard noice theres a chance you damaged something.

 

[GreatHolio]

however the plug for connecting the reader is different on the bike than it is on cars.

It is possible to make a harness that connects the Yam 4 pin to the 16 pin connector ODBII standard. See this thread:

@psycoreefer I did mentions this already.

 

[psycoreefer]

@psycoreefer I did mentions this already.

My bad, I certainly read the entire thread and not just the very last post....
I'm going to claim I was repeating it because you have to hear something 7 times before you remember it...only 5 more to go now.

Did you know that any OBDII reader will work on your MT/FZ/FJ/XSR, but you need a special adapter in order to plug it in?
😉

 

[MASTAFLY]

well took the speed sensor rotor off it looks completely straight and undamaged, it also sits in the wheel so I don't think it would rub on that other side. Does the other sensor piece look off or eaten away? If anything this guy is pointing towards the culprit now... I'll look at the rear real quick while I reassemble and give it another shot.

Noticed the crack in the abs sensor after my buddy pointed it out to me, pretty sure this is the culprit!

 

[MASTAFLY]

What is the gap on the rear sensor?
Make it the same??

rear sensor is flush against the speed sensor, the front is not. I am wondering if this is why, my front sensor has 2 grooves and does not sit flush against the speed rotor. Today I reseated everything and light's still come on, I am going to order the other sensor and make the adapter to clear the lights to see if that does it.

 

[ChesterBurnet]

I put mine on in the wrong direction on my 2017 FJ 09. I didn't even ride it, just spun the wheel while it was still on stand. With the wheel on the opposite way, the sensor hits the wheel and damages the sensor. That's probably the clicking noise. The picture you posted looks like it's damaged. I had to replace the sensor. There is no adjustment for the sensor. I'm pretty sure the front wheel and sensor are identical from the FZ to the FJ. I didn't know much about ABS and traction control......now $90 later I know a lot more.

 

[MASTAFLY]

I put mine on in the wrong direction on my 2017 FJ 09. I didn't even ride it, just spun the wheel while it was still on stand. With the wheel on the opposite way, the sensor hits the wheel and damages the sensor. That's probably the clicking noise. The picture you posted looks like it's damaged. I had to replace the sensor. There is no adjustment for the sensor. I'm pretty sure the front wheel and sensor are identical from the FZ to the FJ. I didn't know much about ABS and traction control......now $90 later I know a lot more.

Yep, ordered mine so it's on the way. I learned now