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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here's my build thread. Picked up my '21 SP back in early July (dealer got the box on July 4th, picked up on July 8th). Was initially in the market for a sport tourer (read here : fairings, windscreen and storage) but after trying out a gazillion windshield options on my previous bike (Honda NC750x) and never finding an option that would be quiet enough and / or without buffeting - I decided to go the naked route. Here's a bit of background.

So I was looking at the Tracer 9 GT. Because of supply issue, the model they had in stock was without the panniers (side cases). They didn't know when they would get in. This was back in June. Test drove a Tracer 900 (older gen), a BMW F900XR, a Versys, a VStrom and an Africa Twin. My requirements were : upright riding position (spinal issues), cruise control(health related) and reduced clutch usage (again, health related). The DCT transmission on the Africa Twin was awesome but overall didn't need such an overkill off-road machine (I never ride off-road). A bike with a very light clutch pull + quick shifter would also fit the bill. Then, out of the blue, while riding with my brother who owns a '18 GSX-S750. Was complaining about the wind noise on my NC then he said "have you tried a naked bike?".. Rode his... fell in love with naked bikes : undisturbed air hitting my helmet.. wow, loved it.

Got a call from the dealer in early July "hey, we've received the cases on the Tracer if you want to see them". Went in...but at that time I wasn't sold on the idea anymore. Decide to sit on the MT-09... really liked it. But it doesn't have cruise control. Dealer has a '20 MT-10 with cruise in stock and with like $2K off MSRP. I take the VINs of the Tracer and the MT-10 and call my insurance. The MT-10 was off the charts... so I'm at an impasse. Then I discover the SP version (cruise!). I text my sales rep - his answer "there's is no way I can get a SP for you....had 4 on orders, got 4.. there might be 1 add one coming up between now and September - let me check my system and get back to you". Then 10min later "holy crap, I have one in stock, you want it?".. So yeah, I picked up an in-stock SP at my dealership lol.

So here it goes :
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So with the background (if you've read it), I need storage. Now in here (Canada) we can't get anything really. Givi is very prevalent but they are only planning to release a top case holder and soft cases holders. All of this is "in manufacturing".. aka, not available. I know that Shad makes stuff but there is ZERO stuff in stock in North America. Ordered a set from Shad USA then, when I realized that they aren't showing stock status, I give them a call : nothing is in stock, There's a container coming but it doesn't have the MT-09 stuff in it. They can ask the factory to make sure the next one will have them but they estimate it will take between 5 and 9 weeks for it to get to Miami then shipping to me. Yikes.

So in the meantime, I need some kind of storage. I need to carry an extra helmet visor, a battery pack, my coat's removable insulation layer, etc. I needed something QUICK. So I did 2 things :

1-Ordered a backpack, a Kriega R20 with the hydration pack
2-Ordered a tank bag - went with Shad with the pin system

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Went with the E-16 - it's large and not-so-pretty, but it can hold my cell phone on top and fit my visor... so I CAN RIDE!

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Wow, what a nice bike!.

This is the end of Part #1. Part #2 (panniers), #3 (dashcam & GPS) are already done, I just need to take the time to post here ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So part #1.5 :)

When I picked up the bike, I picked up a "cheap" Oxford paddock stand. Figured it probably wasn't the best but it could get me started for chain maintenance...

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Turns out it's way to high for my liking - super hard to lift and not really stable (posted about this here)... So after talking to a few people, I selected to go with the Abba stands. Wanted to get the Skylift but before throwing this kind of money on a lift, tested the "base" version.

What a difference!

In the meantime, I'm at 1000km, I need an oil change. I usually pickup Motul stuff but figured that the Yamalube synthetic package was a good deal.

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At that point, the bike is pretty much stock. The only mod is the pin system for tank bag.... but if you have a keen eye, you'll see that my fuel tank is almost empty... that's for the next step....

Also : cancelled the order with Shad USA and decided to order the Shad stuff from Europe directly...

To be continued!
 

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So part #1.5 :)

When I picked up the bike, I picked up a "cheap" Oxford paddock stand. Figured it probably wasn't the best but it could get me started for chain maintenance...

View attachment 166330

Turns out it's way to high for my liking - super hard to lift and not really stable (posted about this here)... So after talking to a few people, I selected to go with the Abba stands. Wanted to get the Skylift but before throwing this kind of money on a lift, tested the "base" version.

What a difference!

In the meantime, I'm at 1000km, I need an oil change. I usually pickup Motul stuff but figured that the Yamalube synthetic package was a good deal.

View attachment 166331

View attachment 166332

At that point, the bike is pretty much stock. The only mod is the pin system for tank bag.... but if you have a keen eye, you'll see that my fuel tank is almost empty... that's for the next step....

Also : cancelled the order with Shad USA and decided to order the Shad stuff from Europe directly...

To be continued!
Looking great ,I have the same bike and have fitted a small screen from powerbronze... Does a very good job with no buffeting ... Al
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I too have a small shield (MRA racing screen) and it's the closest thing to perfection I've found. It removes most of the pressure on my chest, while producing none of the head buffeting of a larger shield. It also helps to have a quiet helmet (modular lids form the tightest seal around the neck) and ear plugs.

Of course, you still get some neck fatigue on long highway stints. But that's an excuse to take the scenic route. It's a motorcycle, after all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I too have a small shield (MRA racing screen) and it's the closest thing to perfection I've found.
Is the MRA available for the '21 ? Do you have any picture of it installed on your bike? The website lists a "provisional shipping date" of Sept 8th

Yep it does ..💯
Would you mind posting a picture from the side (like completely at 90deg)... I want to make sure it fits well...

Also is it me of we're getting gouged with prices on those?! I don't mind paying $200 CAD for a touring windshield from PUIG... but it's not a lot of material for that price lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So here comes Part 2 - the storage ;)

Ended up buying a top case holder & a 3P mount system from Shad. Ordered them from Motostorm. Reviews weren't great but prices were (a good 30% off prices here). So I placed in a order and then reached out. As expected, nothing I ordered was in stock (everything was listed as "shipment in 7 days" when I ordered).

So I reached out and asked. Most of the order was already on the way from Shad in Spain... except the panniers themselves which would be shipping from Shard in 9 days AND the panniers's inner bag which were tentative for 4-6 weeks. They offered to refund both or only one so I can get my shipment earlier. I told them to drop the bags and wait for the side cases.

This is what I got :

  • SH58X top case. Nice expendable hard luggage. Closed it's 40L in volume but my helmet doesn't fit. At mid position, my AGV K6 fits upright and my gf's K3 SV needs to be on the side, but they both fit in. Completely open, it's 58L... I plan on keeping that one all the time on the bike
  • SH36 side cases / panniers. These will only be put on when I need the extra storage (weekend trip) or if extended riding at night is expected (I'll put VFluo stickers on there, they light up like crazy)
  • 3P mounting system for the side cases - part # Y0MT91IF
  • Top case mounting system - part # Y0MT91ST

Overall, I'm satisfied with the build quality and design of the mount. The 3P system looks SUPER clean without the cases on and installing / removing them is a BREEZE. However, the installation instructions were lacking a bit and I had trouble with 4 fasteners. They tell you to remove stuff that isn't needed and then you need to remove other stuff they don't tell you to.

Step #1 : don't remove the rear side fairing pieces... they tell you to but it's not needed. They also forget to mention there are 2 screws on the underside... ¯\(ツ)/¯ (one is visible on top of this picture)

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Step #2 : remove the rear mudguard. First you need to remove the seat lock mechanism (4 bolts). Then 4 nuts for the mudguard itself. Disconnect the blinkers (dark gray and light gray connector on the right in the 2nd pic below). You need to also disconnect the license plate light - it's the 3 pin connector (with only 2 pins) you can see already disconnected below the 2 blinkers.


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There's also one small clip in there (they don't mention it) that needs removing :

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Step #3 : install the mounting plate and 4 washers on the mudguard and reinstall.

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Step #4 : they now tell you to reinstall the side fairing pieces.. which is impossible because the bottom screws are not accessible... See how it fits.. I had to remove the tail end.. then reinstall and re-bolt the fairings... then reinstall the tail end. Again, instructions are kinda lame here.

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Step #5 : with the side fairing pieces reattached (or not removed lol - see step #1), you can now install the actual mounts for the panniers and the top case. The sidecase one goes OVER the top case one (doesn't fit the other way around anyway)

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Step #6 : now comes the problem - how how you supposed to hold that hex bolt? The rear one isn't TOO bad.. but the forward one?!

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As you can see the key was to use a rounded-end hex driver.. but it wouldn't get in unless I would push in the fairing... so I put a microfiber cloth on it and bended the whole thing so it would fit. Now, before someone comes up and say "just drop the mudguard", I agree.. but I couldn't get anything to fit properly if I started by tightening those...

Check the small video I did here :

Step #7 : Install the top plate. Again, instructions weren't really clear. They show you using either long socket head cap screws that came with the fit kit on a C shaped metal bracket OR use the built-in pozidriv (these aren't phillips head) screws with the red plastic fitting. Turns out the ONLY way it would fit would be using a combinaison of both.

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Step #8 : Test fit everything - all good!

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So this is what it looks like when installed - I also bought the back rest - not that I need it (or can even use it with the load limit of this bike) but it adds a bit of a finishing touch and down the road, these become impossible to find...

With the case extended at 58L (max)

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Middle position, with my Medium-Large AGV K6 and a Medium Small K3 SV - case closes

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With the helmets upright, still at middle position on the case, my K6 will fit, but not my gf's K3. Kudos to the smaller shell on the K6!

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The side cases are pretty neat with a "shelf" so your stuff doesn't fall out when you open it up! Better than my Givi...

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My "daily" setup - you can see that the 3P mount is amazingly clean!

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Above picture contains a spoiler for Part #3 - dashcam and GPS :)

Quick walkaround :


 

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Is the MRA available for the '21 ? Do you have any picture of it installed on your bike? The website lists a "provisional shipping date" of Sept 8th



Would you mind posting a picture from the side (like completely at 90deg)... I want to make sure it fits well...

Also is it me of we're getting gouged with prices on those?! I don't mind paying $200 CAD for a touring windshield from PUIG... but it's not a lot of material for that price lol
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Here's the best I've got and a link to the screen ...
Aleks
 

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I must say, I didn't read through all this cause I don't have a 2021. But I must say, most epic of write ups... picture ups??? LOL.

I'm sure the community will be very thankful for your time and effort, good sir.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So here's Part #3 - the GPS and the Dashcam.

First the rationale :
-GPS : I've been mounting my cell phones on my bikes.. since.. I had cellphones and bikes... I already a very sturdy Ram mount with wireless charging... but after almost killing the camera on my previous phone (Pixel 2 XL) and now with a new phone (Pixel 5) - didn't want to repeat the issue. If you don't know, cameras that are equipped with OIS - Optical Image stabilization - have a moving lens element. This small piece of glass / plastic is kinda suspended and is physically moved around by the phone when you move your hand - idea is to counteract the unwanted hand movement. Well turns out that putting such device on a handle bar of a bike that vibrates kills it.. who knew :p. I still want a moving map in front of me (my 6 years old Tesla spoiled me!). Also, some of the rides I take are in non-cell-covered area so it's kinda nice to have something that works there.

-Dashcam : Because it's fun to get video proof of people doing stupid %?&*$%?... and it saved my ass once in a small fender bender in my car.

So for the GPS I went with the latest from Garmin, the Zumo XT. Great little device : super bright 5.5in screen, integrates with "Garmin Drive" on my phone so it gets weather including radar, traffic as well as phone calls, media and notification integration. The key to getting it to work correctly is to pair your phone to it.. and pair your BT headset (I have an AGV Ark.. basically a Sena SF4) to the unit... not to your phone.

For the dashcam, I went with the Thinkware M1. I had it on my previous bike, simply moved it over.

So first : I wanted switched 12V power. This is a must for the Thinkware M1 and almost one for the Zumo... as this thing will charge when power is applied. Measured the worst current draw of both (Zumo charging at max brightness, Thinkware recording with WiFi one) and total was around ~1.1amp @ 12.5V. Great, the built in 2amp circuit for accessories will be enough! Plan B was to install a Fuzeblock FZ1 that I had lying around - if you need switched power, look this product up, it's a great little package.

Step #1 : finding the damn connector. I have the service manual, I knew the color of the wire but I was too dump to find the location. Turns out it's inside the headlight assembly. 4 screws and you're good to go. Bought a pre-wired connector with pigtail off ebay for less than $10 - should have ordered the full kit from CycleTerminal - more on that later.

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So this provides up to 2amps of switched 12V power.

Step 2 : Lift the tank to give you space to work - 4 screws and it lifts up and forward. Unsure if needed or not but I also removed the 2 air scoops before. 2 push clips then 2 bolts and you're off. Ride till your tank is almost empty - it'll help a lot for this :D. You need to pull on the rubber vents and unplug a connector at the bottom of the tank and it should lift up completely. Make sure to put something to protect the top of your tank as it'll hit the handlebar mount.

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Step 3 : routing the wires!

I wanted to use the empty hole on the right of the frame to put everything - unfortunately, the stupid dashcam remote can't be unplugged to you need to fish it though.. and it just doesn't fit.

This hole :
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So here's the routing I took with the remote :

First, left of the wiring harness :

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Then with the clutch cable (I actually flipped it after the picture and attached the cable OUTSIDE of the clutch cable, away from the engine heat)

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Then up the double triple clamp

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And then inside the bult-in zip tie and towards the left control

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Once I was satisfied with the length and installation, I removed the 2 upper screws of the back of the headlight assembly and pushed the wire with the bundle that was already there for a WAY cleaner look

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Then I needed to bring the aux power, the front camera wire AND the GPS power to the back (decided that the junction would be there as I have more space to work with). Instead of using the clutch cable, I used the empty hole on the right side of the frame. I attached my wires to the brakes lines and simply routed everything there. I then wrapped everything in a neat wire bundle and went thru the upper right side of the double triple clamp, like I did on the left side. Seriously, it looks stock.

I then tidied up everything. Stuff coming up from the right goes to the right of the ABS pump, then switches left between the pump and the battery and all of the wiring is then pushed on the left of the battery and then neatly bundled up and tucked on the back. I used crimp connectors & shrink on everything to ensure a tight seal. The larger black box on the back is the brain box of the M1 Thinkware - this is where the SD card is so it needs to be relatively accesible

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If you look carefully at the picture above, between the remote adjuster for the rear shock and the battery, you can see the REAR camera wire. I zip-tied it to the Shad support, went behind the passenger pegs then behind the fairing... What you can see is the 180 to circle back.

Finished product pictures on the next post as I'm about to hit the 10pic limit ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So where I'm at right now :

GPS mounted and working - I used a RAM handle bar screw mount - I still need to tidy up the GPS wire.

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Here you can see the front camera AND the wire bundle going into the frame

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Rear cam - you can see that the tail lamp is obstructed by the case - more on that further down...

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And GPS on and running - still unsure if I like the portrait or the landscape mode better... we'll see while riding.

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So overall I'm pleased with the result. The only thing itching is the tail lamp / brake light situation. If you're higher up (truck for example), you basically CAN'T see it. I guess Shad know about it because they make a brake light just for this ;)

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And it's pretty bright !

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Now, I don't like to cut factory harnesses... Just above the light (in the lighted one) you can see a white, 3 pin connector. This is a MT090-3 connector for the bike's tail lamp. It has ground, running lights and brake. I initially wanted to use a few "positap" I have lying around - if you don't know those, look them up, they are AWESOME - but It just didn't feel right to punch a hole in a brand new wire lol...especially in a place it can get wet. So I went the expensive way - ordered the connectors from Cycle Terminal and I'll do a "T" harness that will plug in between the harness and the light! yay!

I'm waiting on my order from Cycle Terminal but this should make a pretty neat install

I have a small walk-around video that is processing on Youtube right now but in the meantime, here's the output of the dashcam, at night, the day I completed the install.

Headphone warning - VERY LOUD - the mic is crap on those lol

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
HD version is still processing (this is a 4K video) but the walk around video is available now ;)

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Something slightly different today - fell in love with the Abba stands with the Superbike Stand (not affiliated, just a satisfied customer!). REALLY loved the idea of the Skylift... but before throwing that kind of money, decided to test the Superbike one ;)

Guess how was the experience ?

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The result : I SHOULD HAVE DONE THIS EARLIER!!! as in, before doing everything else listed above! Wow.

I was really pondering Abba VS Bursig... but after seeing a Bursig in person, I was sold to the Abba. The Bursig is a nice stand, easier to get the bike on, but for me it didn't go high enough. I have back problems so lifting high enough was key. Also the Bursig has, as of this writing, 6-8 weeks delay... Abba was ready to ship! It was also nice that I could just change the small screw ends to fit my gf's VStrom or my brother's GSX-S750. With the Bursig, it would require a bike specific kit and plate.

Quick video


If
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I had a bit of time today during lunch to test out the 2 other positions on the Abba.

First the "stoppie" position - basically just lift on the swingarm bolts with nothing attached anywhere

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As you can see in the following picture : the top of the tire is exactly at my shoulder height when set to the highest safety hole location. It's going to make chain maintenance a BREEZE! Also see that I neglected to remove my top case... more on that later...

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I then tried the wheelie position by attaching the rear of the swingarm to the base... again, the case was still on... and I couldn't get the bike to go higher than this following pic without it wanting to flip up...

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The max height it could go up - after that, the center of mass would go behind the lifting point and it would REALLY want to tip over... was stuck between the 3rd and 4th (last) hole on the safety pin.. Then I realized that the top case was still on.. and it was almost full of stuff lol :eek:

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Removed it and the bike was rock stable at the max height!

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I LOVE IT!

Abba tells you that the max height in both position is limited by the red cross bar hitting the bottom of the bike - it usually happens with fairings.... the MT is great for this, no limits ;)
 

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First the "stoppie" position - basically just lift on the swingarm bolts with nothing attached anywhere
Can you adjust it to where the rear tire is just kissing the ground? If so, that would make removing/replacing the rear wheel a piece of cake...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Can you adjust it to where the rear tire is just kissing the ground? If so, that would make removing/replacing the rear wheel a piece of cake...
Oh yeah - it's an hydraulic jack, you pick the height you want. There are 4 holes in the vertical arm to put in the security pin but you don't absolutely need to stop at one off those for a quick job. It's definitely not as safe to rely on the hydraulic pressure alone but if you're not going under the bike itself, I don't see what the problem could be.

So, today I got 2 surprises in the mail - my heated grips (all the way from Germany!) and the connector kit + crimp tool from Cycle Terminal.

The OEM grip heaters are very nice. Comes with a nice installation manual and even a small bag with a SINGLE tie wrap lol

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These are going to be a breeze to install but I'm missing the glue to attach the left one so I'm ordering some from Amazon and I'll do these later

Here's what the cycle terminal kit looks like - it's the MT090 kit + the optional crimp tool. Roughly $90 USD which is, in my opinion, a good deal on super hard to find terminals and connectors.

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The 3 pins ones I need!

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First label the pinout using the existing connector
-Black is ground - will tap this one.
-Blue is the always-on tail-light - unused, I'll do a passthrough wire.
-Yellow is the brake light (coming right out of the brake light switch relay), which I'll tap as well.

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The very affordable tool works surprisingly well to make factory looking crimps. The kit comes with the small rubber oring-thingy that you slide on before crimping and they seal the holes when you put the pins in.

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So I did a t-junction. I had blue, yellow and black wire but it's silicone isolated and the gauge was a bit too big which makes it a tad big overall but it worked ok in the end. Looks super nice. The following picture is a test fit - I then had to cut 2 of the small o-rings and push them in with dielectric grease as I couldn't fit it over the 2 wires on the tap side.

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Then routing the wire properly. Went in beside the factory rear lamp (left side) then routed behind the bolt that holds the tail lamp, in a nice groove that was cleary made to route a wire (lol!) then out of the way behind the plastic tray and back to avoid messing the seat opening mechanism.

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Finished product :

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Lighted up with the top case on. If you've got a keen eye, you'll notice a black patch on the panniers. The rear turn signals were way too close and would rub on the cases when hitting bumps. To protect the panniers, I put in a round PVC patch (super cheap, made to fix holes in tents and inflatable mattresses) and, on top, a small strip of UHMW tape. It's not the prettiest but it'll protect the cases!

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In case you're wondering what's the rectangle patch just below the SHAD logo on the top case, it's a 3M super-reflective sticker from a French company named VFluo. It looks almost black but will light up like crazy when it's hit by light (like a license plate does)
 
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