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Just did my my fourth oil change at 3200km, and switched to full synthetic 20w50 Lucas high performance synthetic oil.

Now, I'm sure some members are going to jump on me for this, and tell me I shouldn't use this grade of oil. But I've thought this out.

My main reason is engine temp. This bike gets hot, and 20w50 does a better job of keeping things cool. The only downside is I have to let the bike warm up every time ....which for me is no big deal because I always let it run for 5min before riding (within reason...if I park the bike for 15min I'm not worried about jumping on and riding right away).

So, most times when I hear oil makes a difference on the way a bike runs - I call bs. Most of the time the difference is subtle..and questionable.

Not in this case.

I'm shocked at how much smoother the bike runs, quieter the engine is, and better the gears change. I haven't wound it up to top speed yet, but it seems to move just as well, and wheelie a tad bit easier(??).

Very happy with this oil change ; and amazed really.

No, I don't work for Lucas oil :)...I work at a college:(

Anyone else try this ?
 

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The proof is in the ride -- know one knows better than you.
 

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The high in Calgary Canada today was 69 degrees. The high for tomorrow is 71 degrees.

So yeah....for those blistering high temps.....it's better to buy that $12 a quart 20/50 Synthetic oil to keep the engine temps down to a manageable level, and change the $12 a quart oil every 800kms.
 

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I noticed a smoother ride as well with the switch to full synthetic. I kept the same weight as the Yamalube I was running though; 10w-40. I suspect it has more to do with the sythetic, and less to do with the weight.
 

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I'm shocked at how much smoother the bike runs, quieter the engine is, and better the gears change. I haven't wound it up to top speed yet, but it seems to move just as well, and wheelie a tad bit easier(??).

Very happy with this oil change ; and amazed really.

Anyone else try this ?
What oil were you running before? I suspect the move to full synth made the difference more than the brand or weight.

I noticed the same improvement with each oil change. First change from OEM oil to Motul 5100 Semi-Synth 10W40 @ 300km. Smoother shifting, nicer clutch engagement. Switched to Amsoil 10W40 (full synth of course) @ 1500km and again noticed smoother shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
What oil were you running before? I suspect the move to full synth made the difference more than the brand or weight.

I noticed the same improvement with each oil change. First change from OEM oil to Motul 5100 Semi-Synth 10W40 @ 300km. Smoother shifting, nicer clutch engagement. Switched to Amsoil 10W40 (full synth of course) @ 1500km and again noticed smoother shifting.
I was using 10w40 Mobil Mineral; I've used that oil in the last 3 changes.

I wouldn't doubt that a 10w40 synthetic would give me similar results regarding smooth operation. The 20w50 is just for engine temp. I don't know about you guys, but I find this bike gets hot (you can feel it through the seat). I have also noticed that since the change the temp gauge (exit temp) has remined consistantly lower on average.

I regularly wind the bike up close to red-line, so my feeling is I'm getting some extra protection with a heavier grade.

I think any 20w50 synthetic would give me the same results - I just used the lucas brand because that's what the store had.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The high in Calgary Canada today was 69 degrees. The high for tomorrow is 71 degrees.

So yeah....for those blistering high temps.....it's better to buy that $12 a quart 20/50 Synthetic oil to keep the engine temps down to a manageable level, and change the $12 a quart oil every 800kms.
Why change it every 800km?
 

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Just did my my fourth oil change at 3200km, and switched to full synthetic 20w50 Lucas high performance synthetic oil.

Now, I'm sure some members are going to jump on me for this, and tell me I shouldn't use this grade of oil. But I've thought this out.

My main reason is engine temp. This bike gets hot, and 20w50 does a better job of keeping things cool. The only downside is I have to let the bike warm up every time ....which for me is no big deal because I always let it run for 5min before riding (within reason...if I park the bike for 15min I'm not worried about jumping on and riding right away).

So, most times when I hear oil makes a difference on the way a bike runs - I call bs. Most of the time the difference is subtle..and questionable.

Not in this case.

I'm shocked at how much smoother the bike runs, quieter the engine is, and better the gears change. I haven't wound it up to top speed yet, but it seems to move just as well, and wheelie a tad bit easier(??).

Very happy with this oil change ; and amazed really.

No, I don't work for Lucas oil :)...I work at a college:(

Anyone else try this ?
I question the viscosity range.you display is a common misconception.

At operating temperature all multigrade oil is at similar viscosity.The difference lies at ambient temperature and while the oil is reaching operating temperature and how it lubricates before it gets to operating temperature.

Most wear occurs in this warming phase.

Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy - Bob is the Oil Guy

"One of the members of the Ferrari Chat web site went from a 40 to a 30 grade oil in his Ferrari 355 for racing in Texas. He noticed a drop in temperature but no change in oil pressure. This may seem odd but really makes perfect sense. Since the 30 grade oil is thinner he got better flow and therefore better cooling. The oil was at a lower temperature so it was not as thin than it would have been at the previous higher temperature. Cooler engines last longer. Fact: The higher the temperature, the greater the wear, all other things being equal."
 

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I live in Tucson, AZ, and run synth 10w40 in the summer..... in my AIR-cooled FJ12....it lubricates better. She shifts better and has less mechanical noises than with 20w50 synth did.

Personally, I think its stupid to run too-thick an oil.... thinner flows better.
 

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I live in Vegas, it was 118 today and yesterday.

I run Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic 5w40 in my bikes, my car, and my truck.

I've only had one engine failure in my entire life, and that was due to me screwing up the carb and leaning out a cylinder far, far too much blew a hole in my piston.

IMO, you are running way too thick of an oil for your conditions, but everyones got an opinion.

All About Motor Oil

IMO, this guy knows his stuff.

I will be sending off my oil to blackstone soon.
 

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I live in Tucson, AZ, and run synth 10w40 in the summer..... in my AIR-cooled FJ12....it lubricates better. She shifts better and has less mechanical noises than with 20w50 synth did.

Personally, I think its stupid to run too-thick an oil.... thinner flows better.
Tucson here too. Only run 10w40 synthetic as well.
 

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Bio, the cooling system is what regulates the engine temperature, the FZ9 isn't some old oil boiler from the 50's where engine fins, air flow and heavier oil kept things from melting down. The benefit you're feeling is the switch from mineral oil to full synthetic, not the change in grade.
 

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Just did my my fourth oil change at 3200km, and switched to full synthetic 20w50 Lucas high performance synthetic oil.

Now, I'm sure some members are going to jump on me for this, and tell me I shouldn't use this grade of oil. But I've thought this out.

My main reason is engine temp. This bike gets hot, and 20w50 does a better job of keeping things cool. The only downside is I have to let the bike warm up every time ....which for me is no big deal because I always let it run for 5min before riding (within reason...if I park the bike for 15min I'm not worried about jumping on and riding right away).

So, most times when I hear oil makes a difference on the way a bike runs - I call bs. Most of the time the difference is subtle..and questionable.

Not in this case.

I'm shocked at how much smoother the bike runs, quieter the engine is, and better the gears change. I haven't wound it up to top speed yet, but it seems to move just as well, and wheelie a tad bit easier(??).

Very happy with this oil change ; and amazed really.

No, I don't work for Lucas oil :)...I work at a college:(

Anyone else try this ?

Increasing the pressure while using the same oil will increase the oil flow but increasing the pressure by increasing the oil thickness will result in less flow. It takes more pressure to move a thicker oil. When you go to a thicker oil the pressure goes up because of the increased resistance, and therefore reduction of flow. Because the pressure is higher sooner, the relief valve cuts in sooner. Flow will actually be less when the RPM is up and the flow is needed the most.

up to you though?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Changed it over to 10w40 full synthetic Royal Purple. thanks all for making me sufficiently paranoid. :)

Runs just as well....although a tad buzzier than the 20w50.
 

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I'm actually running a synthetic 10/50 since my last oil change.....ill switch back to 10/40 when it gets cooler out
 

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Oil viscosity is important to the proper function of crankshaft and connecting rod bearings. Bearing clearances are set by the factory to regulate oil flow rate through the bearings as well as to provide the proper thickness of oil film to support the moving parts. Oil of the specified viscosity for the average ambient temperature where the engine is being operated will produce the desired oil film thickness and rate of flow through the bearings. Higher than specified viscosity slows oil flow through the bearings which causes the oil and the bearing to run hotter than it should. Overheating causes premature breakdown of the oil.
 

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If my bike actually ran quieter, cooler and shifted better with synthetic 20w-50 vs. mineral 10w-40 then I would run the 20w-50 synthetic, and quit reading oil threads that will only make you paranoid.
 
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