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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi trying again not used t this site,. I have a 2021 mto9 can't get hold of mobile racing 4t. 10_40 can I use the 15_50 instead ????
Looking forward to your replies
jps
 

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After 3 years of sending off oil analysis's on my own dime I established that conventional Yamalube is damn good oil. It's only $20-22 / gallon in my local bike shop, so one of the least expensive oils you can find. I had a hard time trusting the 6,000 mile oil change interval Yamaha suggested on my FZ 07, but oil analysis shows that at 6,000 miles that the conventional Yamalube isn't even close to worn out. And that bike runs WAY hotter than my 09. Oil analysis also showed that Rotella is utter fvcking garbage. Any GOOD oil is fine. You don't have to throw money and resources down the drain over marketing claims or "cheap insurance". $15 worth of Yamalube and their filter and forget about it for the next 6-8k miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After 3 years of sending off oil analysis's on my own dime I established that conventional Yamalube is damn good oil. It's only $20-22 / gallon in my local bike shop, so one of the least expensive oils you can find. I had a hard time trusting the 6,000 mile oil change interval Yamaha suggested on my FZ 07, but oil analysis shows that at 6,000 miles that the conventional Yamalube isn't even close to worn out. And that bike runs WAY hotter than my 09. Oil analysis also showed that Rotella is utter fvcking garbage. Any GOOD oil is fine. You don't have to throw money and resources down the drain over marketing claims or "cheap insurance". $15 worth of Yamalube and their filter and forget about it for the next 6-8k miles.
Hi I want to use Mobil synthetic because I ran an fjr 1300 on it for seventeen years, when I changed it for my amazing mto9 the dealer gave me a great price for the fj and when they checked they said the motor was superb for it's year that was Mobil 1 not Mobil for bikes, no slipping clutch and it went like sh-- of a shovel also ran quieter. Would like to use Yammy sinthetic but I am too old to get a mortgage :)
 

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Mobil, Silkolene, castrol, lamalube...any good oil will do let's not fall into the trap of thinking your bike lasted longer because of the oil manufacturer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mobil, Silkolene, castrol, lamalube...any good oil will do let's not fall into the trap of thinking your bike lasted longer because of the oil manufacturer.
I'm
I agree with you, it is the way you maintain it that matters I only stopped sleeping with it two days before I sold it :) I would have kept it till one of us pegged it but the weight proved too much for my new stainless knee. The real question was Yammy spec 10-40 but can I safely use 15-50. ?
By the way not sleeping in the sexual sense ( I think)
I only put rubber on the road 😂
 

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I'm
I agree with you, it is the way you maintain it that matters I only stopped sleeping with it two days before I sold it :) I would have kept it till one of us pegged it but the weight proved too much for my new stainless knee. The real question was Yammy spec 10-40 but can I safely use 15-50. ?
By the way not sleeping in the sexual sense ( I think)
I only put rubber on the road 😂
You got rid of your bike because of a knee replacement?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You got rid of your bike because of a knee replacement?
Wellll uuuum it's the excuse I used to the wife !!!! Then I got omg the pillion seat is tiny !!¡! Now she has her own bike , don't think she trusts me out on my own !!¡ Knee is fine but don't tell her, the dealer offered me such a good price I couldn't refuse. Kept my other bikes a Suzuki RV 125 for the forest an my oh so pretty little hand gear change Money Goyon, the mto9 is better than LSD 😈
 

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The shop I go to swears by Motul 3000 4T, semi-synthetic. I actually asked him about Motul 300V because that's what I ran for ~60000+ miles on my 675 and it was one of the few oils that would smooth out the shifting. The first gen 675 transmision is very notchy. Anyway he told me to skip it because. It's too "slippery" for most clutchpacks. I have little knowledge in the field but I do trust his recommendation so I went with it.

Later down the road at higher mileage he said I might consider going full synth but for now it's unnecessary.

Edit: 300v not 3000V
 

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After 3 years of sending off oil analysis's on my own dime I established that conventional Yamalube is damn good oil. It's only $20-22 / gallon in my local bike shop, so one of the least expensive oils you can find. I had a hard time trusting the 6,000 mile oil change interval Yamaha suggested on my FZ 07, but oil analysis shows that at 6,000 miles that the conventional Yamalube isn't even close to worn out. And that bike runs WAY hotter than my 09. Oil analysis also showed that Rotella is utter fvcking garbage. Any GOOD oil is fine. You don't have to throw money and resources down the drain over marketing claims or "cheap insurance". $15 worth of Yamalube and their filter and forget about it for the next 6-8k miles.
Interesting.That's what I say to people also but they keep changing oil every 3000miles/5000kms.
What other oil brands did you check with oil analysis?
 

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The shop I go to swears by Motul 3000 4T, semi-synthetic. I actually asked him about Motul 3000V because that's what I ran for ~60000+ miles on my 675 and it was one of the few oils that would smooth out the shifting. The first gen 675 transmision is very notchy. Anyway he told me to skip it because. It's too "slippery" for most clutchpacks. I have little knowledge in the field but I do trust his recommendation so I went with it.

Later down the road at higher mileage he said I might consider going full synth but for now it's unnecessary.
I have not sent my oil for any analysis, but from my experience running motul 5100 4T, I did not notice any change in performance or shifting smoothness. I do like the packaging of the oil for ease of use. The neck pulls out like an accordion and makes it easier to pour.
 

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The MT09 shifts like butter from mile 0.1 compared to the 675. She was particularly picky about what oils she liked... once I ran the 300V and see how much better she shifted I never looked back.
 

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Oil analysis also showed that Rotella is utter fvcking garbage. Any GOOD oil is fine.
I banged on my air/oil cooled 1996 Bandit750 mercilessly for 137,000 miles and used Rotella exclusively. Never needed topping off. Sold it to a friend who is still shredding the byways of rural Tennessee with that little road burner.

With that said, I use Yamalube in the FZ.
 

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I banged on my air/oil cooled 1996 Bandit750 mercilessly for 137,000 miles and used Rotella exclusively. Never needed topping off. Sold it to a friend who is still shredding the byways of rural Tennessee with that little road burner.

With that said, I use Yamalube in the FZ.
Me and the guys I street raced with ran Rotella exclusively for many years. 10+ years? Lots of 1,000 hp old school V8's logging street miles. We went through a ton of oil and it was cheap. Good for us, it proved to be great oil. One summer, a couple guys started losing cams like someone flipped a switch. By the end of the season two local machines were refusing to do work if you were gonna use Rotella and even hung signs in the shop. It went from "The Oil" to use to something's wrong here real fast. What Rotella used to be ain't what it is now.

I bought my FZ07 new and dumped the original oil after the ride home. I put conventional Rotella in and it was jet black and turned to water over the weekend. That was the last straw for me. I was tired of guessing and wanted answers. Sent it to Blackstone labs who emailed me after looking at my sample because they couldn't believe that was fresh oil out of a fresh motor with only 600 miles on it. It was so bad they just wanted to verify everything for their records. That's all I needed to walk away and warn others to be cautious with it.

Rotella served me well for a long time, too I don't owe them anything and something changed and I don't trust it anymore. That's just how it is.
 

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Interesting.That's what I say to people also but they keep changing oil every 3000miles/5000kms.
What other oil brands did you check with oil analysis?
The short answer is none.

I had a brand new FZ 07 with a warranty and a gallon of Yamalube was $2 cheaper than the Rotella I'd just stopped trusting so I gave the Yamalube a shot. Oil reports kept coming back squeaky clean and the lab suggested I could go much longer than the 3000 miles oil changes I was accustomed to.

Blackstone labs keeps a database of engines based on vehicle model, but they're not bike people so they aren't familiar with everything. I informed them that the engine in my FZ 07 was also in a bike called MT 07 and Tenere 700. They verified what I told them and started combing all that data. They don't keep data on who uses what type of oil, they just track wear metal levels at different mileages to compare against. Kinda cool, because it gives you a baseline to gauge from. Like, hey man, these engines don't typically produce this amount of "____" particles, so you might want to have that checked out. After one year of oil changes ( I think it was 3 ?) they were telling me that my engine was producing the least amount of wear metals in their data base, so I just stuck with the Yamalube.

I only do one oil analysis per year now. If Yamalube stops performing as well as it does now I'll have to find something else. But at far, so good! 👍
 

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I've used Mobil synth in my cars and bikes for 25 years, but I'm changing to Castrol synth because it doesn't seem to have the 24 carat gold additive that makes Mobil so f"n expensive.
 
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