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Wow, those are some good numbers!
thank you!
Wow, those are some good numbers!
negative sir you math is wrong assuming a 200 lb person to start withIf you lose 5 kg. you can catch the same kg/HP ratio
Even if your bike is completely stock, a good ECU flash can still make the bike feel smoother, run cooler, and in some cases run more efficient/get better distance/gallon.Would you say, that a flash would be worth the money on a totally stock bike or only worth it when installing pipe, filter etc?
We have some pretty strict laws where i live, and the chance to take when doing aftermarket exhaust is not worth it for me. But if the gains on the stock bike makes it run even better i would consider doing just the flash.
The bike in stock form with stock ecu is deffently better then my 18model was, and it pulls lovely. But again, if it makes it even better and it is something you can tell i would consider it![]()
I know all the basic benefits by flashing as you describe, but i want to know if it will make more power that you feel and not just dyno figures on a stock bike. By flashing it i will void my 5 year warranty on the engine, so for me at has to do something “major” to the engine feel to be worth voiding the warranty.Even if your bike is completely stock, a good ECU flash can still make the bike feel smoother, run cooler, and in some cases run more efficient/get better distance/gallon.
It's a hard call this one.... Mine is smoother and gained torque and power all over the rev range but it's not stock. Just by unlocking the top end power on this bike without any mods would be worth it. Maybe @vycyclenut can answer this as he has been mapping his bike from stock !🤩I know all the basic benefits by flashing as you describe, but i want to know if it will make more power that you feel and not just dyno figures on a stock bike. By flashing it i will void my 5 year warranty on the engine, so for me at has to do something “major” to the engine feel to be worth voiding the warranty.
I traded in my 16’ gsxs1000f for the 21’ mt09sp, and compared to that, the ride by wire combined with the cp3 is a blast and alot, and i mean ALOT, more smooth then the suki. Despite the differents in CC and HP the 09 is a faster bike where i ride - thats why i ended up trading it.
It also feels better then my previous 18’ mt09sp, so the flash on my 21’ would need to do something for me to make it worth it. And the best way was to wait for someone who has done the flash on a stock bike and then ask so i get the real picture and not just numbers![]()
Your bike picked up 4+ hp and 5+ Ft lb torque, along with a smoothed throttle and some delicious sound. Both are negligible gains unless your on the track and a crack rider. If your riding the streets, commuting as a intermediate rider you may never push that bike hard enough to get to use that power.Hey guys, I had my bike up at 2wheeldynoworks in Kirkland, WA specifically to get the ECU flashed.
They also installed my Akrapovic Carbon exhaust as well as the DNA Stage 2 Air filter.
I only picked up the bike up a few hours ago but, oh my gosh it's an entirely different bike now.
View attachment 168042
It's so smooth, and it just wants to pull even harder than it did before! The engine braking was smoothed out as well so when I'm off throttle it doesn't throw me forward. I'll keep you all updated when I get some more time on the bike. But, so far so good!
2wheel has more information on their site for the '21 ECU flashing service
And Links:
DNA stage 2 Air Filter
Akrapovic Racing Line (Carbon)
Also, if you are curious about the "Airbox" Mod for the 2021's feel free to message me. It was tried and... yeah
Edit : Here are the other comparison charts
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We could also see some gains from a change of stack lengths, also need some back to back runs with the snorkels trimmed & removed.
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Your insight is appreciated it’s however the explanation of the intake process over my head. Keep up the good work.Hi guys,
Can anyone direct me to a discussion of different mods to the airbox for the Gen3 2021 Yamaha MT-09? I can't find any - only this thread and Vcyclenut's shortening of the ports and removal of the top bellmouths. It seems it didn't make a significant difference - thanks to David for sharing this info - much appreciated. Intake testing - FLASHED BY VCYCLENUT . David didn't increase intake area though - has anyone tried adding an extra intake port to their airbox?
The reason I'm asking is that I have a background in engineering and a lifelong hobby in speaker design, plus I've modified airboxes and discovered some half-baked principles that I hope to try out on my MT-09.
1. Bellmouths are a must to maximise flow - simply cutting holes is bad, especially with no attention to inlet area increase.
2. Increases in inlet area should be in proportion to expected gains in torque/power - for example, I found a 6% increase in fuelling needed for a 35% increase in inlet area + DNA (who claim a 6.4% increase) on a Ninja 650R.
3. Adding long narrow inlet pipes can boost low down torque with appropriate fuelling changes
4. Shortening an existing pipe offers more induction noise but no significant change in performance
5. Modifying the air temp sensor resistance to add more fuel is unreliable because it's a non-linear themistor - using a thermistor works but getting matching specs is a pain to achieve.
6. Using a precision op amp circuit to gain the voltage on the throttle body inlet air pressure sensor allows extra fuel in a precisely controllable and predictable manner and can be finely adjusted on-the-go to dial-in the right feel.
The idea for the MT-09 is to keep the longer narrower port on the left unchanged because I think this aids low down torque and creates a low note for the induction noise. The other ports can be shortened to allow more induction noise, especially the largest/shortest/straightest one in the middle since that is designed mostly to suppress intake noise at high rpm - but I love this induction noise! Who doesn't? The longish large pipe on the right might benefit from a slash cut since the pipe is curved. Perhaps adding another short port with a bellmouth will increase flow without screwing up airbox pressure - where the mid pipe used to be.
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Basically, my theorising/experimentation on other bikes suggests that the engine works like the speaker driver, and this pressurises the airbox/speaker cabinet. The inlet pipes work as ports that tune the box - each port will have a resonant frequency determined by its dimensions and the volume of air in the box (there's software to calculate this - WinISD), and the specs of the "driver" (engine) interact with this. Engine capacity and valve duration would be equivalent to speaker cone dimensions and excursion. Above the resonant frequency, the induction noise is suppressed, and below, it flows freely - longer tubes have lower frequencies so they suppress noise more. I haven't done the maths, but I think engine "frequencies" are far above these resonant frequencies. So, cutting the tubes down will affect resonance - airbox volume increases slightly lowering the frequency, and volume (amplitude), tone (frequency), and to a limited extent, airflow, but not airbox pressure, are changed. So, more noise and only small changes in airflow/pressure occur. David's dyno runs seem to support this.
Adding more inlet area lowers pressure (in speakers, this is the damping back pressure, which is key to getting maximum sound pressure levels, spl, from the speaker driver). Lower pressure creates lower resonant frequencies but if it is lowered excessively, this will reduce the pressure needed at various rpms for max power (max spl). While I get speakers, engines and airboxes are a complicated balance that I don't fully grasp. However, I am sure that getting the most power from the engine means increasing gas flow over standard. To get more gas flow almost certainly means more intake area over standard, along with more air flow through the air filter and exhaust, and then getting the fuelling right for this extra flow.
A bellmouth on the port end effectively lengthens the port and improves/increases flow because it is more laminar/less turbulent. Bellmouths have dimensional requirements to follow. Always use a bellmouth.
So, anyone know of any threads where the airbox has been redesigned either by trial and error or whatever? Has anyone tried adding an extra port to their airbox and done dyno runs/fuelling changes?
PS sorry for all the edits... here's my Ninja modified airbox - I added the centre port as the increase in intake area.
View attachment 172115
It's been a while since I last did this and I already forgot all the details... I made 2 mistakes. I did not include volumetric efficiency (how well the engine can fill the cylinder - guessed at 0.9) or pulsation factor (how the filter affects the induction pulses in the airbox - 1.2 for a 4-stroke triple). The theoretical demand of this engine is 180 CFM.How much flow does the engine need? Each cylinder is going to draw in 296.67 cubic centimetres at each induction, which is 0.0104766842253 cubic feet. A four stroke triple at 10,600 rpm is drawing in 265 of each cylinder volume per second, and 15,900 per minute. That's 166.5 cubic feet per minute - about the same as the OEM filter (not airbox?) and a little more than DNA's stage 2 filter. Did I get that right? I'm sure DNA did so maybe I'm a little off, and/or they calcuated for a lower max rpm.
not sure what you mean, my flash has been ready for a while , done over 100 21-22'skeep the bike compliant, but doesn't appear there's much to be had. Maybe vcyclenut's tune will net some better results when his is ready?