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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I have a 2017 FZ 09. I'm having an issue where I feel like it's not shifting as easily as it used to. It has 16k on it and then I've changed the oil every 3,000 miles.

There is generally a very hard and loud clunk shifting from neutral to first, which I've learned is fine. Although I feel like I hear a similar clunk when shifting into 2-3-4 while riding. 5-6 feels smooth. With this, I have to push up harder on the shifter then I used to, I don't hear any grinding. Sometime I hear/feel the clunk downshifting too.

The clunks I hear are pretty precise and clear, but loud and I can feel the gear box (move?) while riding.

Best way I can describe it is I can feel the shifts and hear them over my exhaust.

Clutch lever is adjusted correctly, I've changed the oil twice in the last 500 miles. I've played with the shifter position.

I don't mind the clunk or resistance, I'm just wondering if it's indicative of a problem. I've let friends ride the bike who also have FZ09s and they say they don't feel much difference so it could be in my head (I don't have my same riding shoes and it's been 2 months since I've rode the FZ)

I can't find jack about people having an issue like this, so just wanted some perspective. Thanks
 

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Have a look at your shifter linkage, see if anything's binding. It doesn't take much adjustment to make a big difference in how it feels.
 
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Have a look at your shifter linkage, see if anything's binding. It doesn't take much adjustment to make a big difference in how it feels.
Yeah, I did make sure the linkage can pivot at both points.

I might add, it feels perfectly fine shifting with the bike off.
 

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...(I don't have my same riding shoes and it's been 2 months since I've rode the FZ)
Changing shoes / boots is huge. When I go back and forth from my super stiff Sidi boots, to something else I may be willing to walk around in at a destination, it makes a big difference in shifting. I will miss shifts and ride like a rookie until I get oriented, or adjust the linkage.
For upshifts, if you preload the shifter then pull in the clutch the change should happen effortlessly.
If you simply pull in the clutch then force the lever, it will be clunkier.
See 2 minutes into this video
 

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I'll go a different direction - make sure you clutch cable is tight enough to fully disengage the clutch. 16k is enough for the cable to stretch and if you haven't adjusted the cable you might not be getting the clutch 100% disengaged.
Is it hard to find neutral when the bike isn't moving - does it have a tendency to clunk down to first or up to second and skip neutral?

If the clutch is only getting 99% disengaged it will cause hard & clunky shifting like you describe, plus make it hard to find neutral when the bike isn't moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll go a different direction - make sure you clutch cable is tight enough to fully disengage the clutch. 16k is enough for the cable to stretch and if you haven't adjusted the cable you might not be getting the clutch 100% disengaged.
Is it hard to find neutral when the bike isn't moving - does it have a tendency to clunk down to first or up to second and skip neutral?

If the clutch is only getting 99% disengaged it will cause hard & clunky shifting like you describe, plus make it hard to find neutral when the bike isn't moving.
Thanks for responding. I've adjusted the lever to where the Freeplay is about the thickness of two credit cards. I don't have any lurching forward in gear and getting in neutral is as easy as ever (with the expection of it sometimes just needing a little more force then used to).

I do preload the shifter and while I won't miss a shift, feels like it needs more of a 'kick' then it used to and changing gears is loud up till fourth while riding. It feels like that N to 1st thunk but in other gears too. Mind you, not every shift too.

I would love this to be a rider error issue lol but I put the 16k miles on the bike so I feel like I knew exactly how it shifted.
 

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I find shifting faster helps. The video shown is also another way.
When you get good at doing fast shifts, try doing clutchless up shifts. Start with the 5-6 shift and be ready to pull the clutch if it doesn't work. When you roll off the throttle, the engine will slow down quite quickly, so be ready with the shift lever just like in the video and cover the clutch with your hand.
Then start doing the shifts in the lower gears, working down 4-5, 3-4, 2-3... The 1-2 shift is possible but it is hard to do cleanly so I usually use the clutch for that one.
I also always use the clutch and blip the throttle for downshifts.

A smooth complete shift is important as it doesn't wear the corners off the gear dogs - which can result in gears jumping out of engagement when you don't want them too. That is an involved and expensive repair.
 

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You didn't mention if your using regular dino oil or synthetic. With regular dino oil shifting can go south and be a bit clunkier long before the 3,000 mile oil change interval. As some of the others have mentioned, the gear box works better with a deliberate shift, not a lazy "pull the clutch in and a bit of a pause" before engaging the next gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You didn't mention if your using regular dino oil or synthetic. With regular dino oil shifting can go south and be a bit clunkier long before the 3,000 mile oil change interval. As some of the others have mentioned, the gear box works better with a deliberate shift, not a lazy "pull the clutch in and a bit of a pause" before engaging the next gear.
Been using full synthetic the entire time. Last change I did 100 miles ago last week.

I really notice every little thing so I've been really meticulous about shifting the past week.
 

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Check that the clutch isn't dragging too.
 

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Oh I haven't looked into this. How do I check this and what does it mean ?
Get the rear wheel in the air, start the bike and select first, then disengage the clutch the rear wheel will probably turn but will easily stop if you put a hand on it.
If it doesn't, it's dragging
 

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Get the rear wheel in the air, start the bike and select first, then disengage the clutch the rear wheel will probably turn but will easily stop if you put a hand on it.
If it doesn't, it's dragging
...and don't be surprised if this procedure sets of a warning light on the dash if you have ABS.
 

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What rpm are you shifting at?

My gearchanges are clunky if I am riding slow and shifting below about 4k rpm. If I accelerate briskly through the gears it is much better.

Like someone else has said, shoes also make a big difference for me as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What rpm are you shifting at?

My gearchanges are clunky if I am riding slow and shifting below about 4k rpm. If I accelerate briskly through the gears it is much better.

Like someone else has said, shoes also make a big difference for me as well.
Yeah this is pretty close to what in experiencing. If I'm getting on it, it shifts much better. I just feel like it wasn't this bad when I would put around town and shift at lower gears.

I mean shit I can feel the gear changes in the motor. It's not getting worse, which starting to make me believe maybe there isn't a problem. I've put on about 1k miles since this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Get the rear wheel in the air, start the bike and select first, then disengage the clutch the rear wheel will probably turn but will easily stop if you put a hand on it.
If it doesn't, it's dragging
Thanks for the suggestion, I was able to stop the wheel with my hand.
 

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The only other thing that I’ll add that I haven’t seen is if you’re running stock or aftermarket rear sets. I would also adjust the shift lever closer to your boot if you’re running standard shifting. This exact same issue happened to me and I realize what had happened is the shift linkage shortened therefore the gear lever went up needless to say I added a nut and a Loctite to the bottom of the shift linkage. It should also be noted that I am also running a trans logic quick shifter and auto blipper. Those twoCan either make your shifts like butter or make you feel like you’re writing a rhino
 

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Is it still the original chain? It could be the chain is sloppy due to age. At 16K I would think it is at the end of it's life.
 

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Is it still the original chain? It could be the chain is sloppy due to age. At 16K I would think it is at the end of it's life.
Vortex chain and sprockets changed at 10k, slack is at one inch as I always have had it. Clutch cable adjusted properly, shift linkage pivots normally, and is adjusted to my foot. Recent oil changes used Motul v300. It's shifting pretty damn harsh under 6-7k, I'm positive at this point it wasn't like this about 1.5k miles ago (also I rode a few other fz09s and mine feels like it shifts way harsher). I feel like it's worse when it's cold out and I'm at around 165 temps, not sure for certain. I did the clutch drag test, I can stop the wheel with my hand on stands in first.

Thinking about replacing the clutch, because idk what else to try at this point I've done all the basics.
 
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