[Howard Richman]

I've already read how the intake and exhaust cams need to be pulled and tied to the timing chain while reinstalling to line up cam and cam cap marks. Should be no problem, but when cams were out; I was spinning crank while hand guiding cam chain a few times for testing and being curious, but careful, and need to know if the triangular mark in site window I used to remove cams is located every 360 deg.for cam alignment ( 1 full rotation or every other rotation) ? I can probably test this by marking cam chain and rotate crank. If there's a difference, please explain where and how to set up for cam and cam cap alignment. Also I checked shims kind of early, and found exhaust valves similarly the same. I measured .254 mm gaps. I'm just under the recommended .26-.30 mm minimum. The shims were approx. 1.80mm. The 1.75's would bring it to just over .30mm, but leaving would keep it just under the .26 min. I always heard it's better for shims be loose, but not sure where to go w/ this. Also; which Loctite is to used for the cam tensioner bolts; red 271 permanent; 272 hi temp; 277 hi strength, or 242 blue ? No replies from fj-09 /Tracer forum
please reply if can help.

Thank You...

 

[HyperNakedPimp]

Take your spark plug out of cylinder #2. Place a long screw driver in there. Turn the crank until you see the screw driver sink down then rise to max height. When the screw driver appears to be at max height align the btdc mark. This is top dead center. Yes, its always better to shim on the larger side since clearance becomes tighter over time. You do not need loc tight with your cam chain tensioner.

 

[Howard Richman]

Is #2 piston @ TDC and aligned w/ btdc mark location for correct alignment of cam/cap marks ? Also manual states to use Loctite on those tensioner bolts.

 

[abe57]

Is #2 piston @ TDC and aligned w/ btdc mark location for correct alignment of cam/cap marks ? Also manual states to use Loctite on those tensioner bolts.

If you insist on using loctite use blue . Red is a big no at this application !

 

[JCFZ9]

Is #2 piston @ TDC and aligned w/ btdc mark location for correct alignment of cam/cap marks ?

The mark is literally just a mark on a circle (generator rotor), which is keyed to the crank. Doesn't matter how many times you turn it, if the mark is in the same position each time, so are the pistons.

 

[Howard Richman]

The mark is literally just a mark on a circle (generator rotor), which is keyed to the crank. Doesn't matter how many times you turn it, if the mark is in the same position each time, so are the pistons.

And I assume so also will be the cam locations when lining up the cam/cap marks

 

[JCFZ9]

And I assume so also will be the cam locations when lining up the cam/cap marks

Yeah, drop the cams in with the punch marks facing up to line up with the marks on the caps, just don't mix up the intake and exhaust cams LOL. Make sure you pull the cam chain up as you put the exhaust cam in so that there's no slack on the front chain run, also make sure there's no (or as little as possible) slack on the top run. And then zip tie the chain to the sprockets, because when you torque down the caps, the intake cam wants to pop back.

 

[Howard Richman]

OK. Got it. I just wanted to be sure rotor mark on crank @ site hole will always line up to where cams are installed no matter how many times crank is turned 360 deg. from marked position. I read the crank will turn 2 revolutions for 1 turn of the cams; so I wasn't sure if I'd get it right the 1st time. Looks fool proof; but will the cams always be in correct location even if punch marks on cams are lined up w. caps in relation to the K mark on crank?