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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Took the bike out this morning to test some suspension changes. I had recently installed Andreani cartridges with 2.5w Redline in the compression fork and I was trying to balance the rear zx10 characteristics. Anyway, I must have been feeling spunky because taking off quickly from a light I found myself staring at the sky. Thankfully, I recovered in time to avoid going over backwards, but it was a couple of unexpected feet in the air and I was not covering the rear brake. I had reduced the rear compression damping and I wonder if that had increased the propensity toward a wheelie.
 

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Took the bike out this morning to test some suspension changes. I had recently installed Andreani cartridges with 2.5w Redline in the compression fork and I was trying to balance the rear zx10 characteristics. Anyway, I must have been feeling spunky because taking off quickly from a light I found myself staring at the sky. Thankfully, I recovered in time to avoid going over backwards, but it was a couple of unexpected feet in the air and I was not covering the rear brake. I had reduced the rear compression damping and I wonder if that had increased the propensity toward a wheelie.
So you spent over $1K on suspension improvements, but never before rode hard enough to know the bike's propensity to wheelie? Well, now you know about the bike's propensity to wheelie. You may come to find that the bike will also wheelie while leaned over in 3rd gear (possibly 4th), and will also wheelie over some rises in 6th gear.
 

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This isn't a bike you grip and rip - if you have any calibration to the torque specs you know that going into it, the first hard pull on the throttle you learn it the hard way.

Is the bike easy to wheelie? Yes

Is the bike easy to not wheelie with good body position and throttle control? Absolutely
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So you spent over $1K on suspension improvements, but never before rode hard enough to know the bike's propensity to wheelie? Well, now you know about the bike's propensity to wheelie. You may come to find that the bike will also wheelie while leaned over in 3rd gear (possibly 4th), and will also wheelie over some rises in 6th gear.
Exactly right; I credit my circumspection for my continuing good health, and you don't need to wheelie to understand the necessity for suspension improvements.
 

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Is the bike easy to not wheelie with good body position and throttle control? Absolutely
This is where I find the FZ09 is the most fun. Feels like a superbike in the mountains. Full tuck mode out of corners and the nose is still popping up under acceleration just slightly, feels like i'm a moto-gp racer. It's such a blast
 
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This isn't a bike you grip and rip - if you have any calibration to the torque specs you know that going into it, the first hard pull on the throttle you learn it ...
It sometimes does not grab and spins that rear, throwing back stones. Imagine if the swingarm was shorter. The tail tidy looks like they have swingarm extension which requires more torque to get the front up. It goes up hard and quick when it does wheelie from a light but most times hard throttle spins the tire. I think it is more likely you dropped forward off throttle then back on throttle got a bounce straight up. Need less thread showing?
 

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Next time that happens just lean back a little. Straighten your arms. Quickly shift to second gear. And ride that baby out :D b(^_^)d
 

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It sometimes does not grab and spins that rear, throwing back stones. Imagine if the swingarm was shorter. The tail tidy looks like they have swingarm extension which requires more torque to get the front up. It goes up hard and quick when it does wheelie from a light but most times hard throttle spins the tire. I think it is more likely you dropped forward off throttle then back on throttle got a bounce straight up. Need less thread showing?
Sounds to me like your still running the crappy dunlops that came on the bike. As soon as you get decent tires you wont be spinning the rear unless your trying to do so
 

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Taller gearing helps to reduce the wheelies off the line, along with shifting your weight forward (handlebar and seating position) and pressing your chest firmly against the tank on acceleration.
 

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Wheelies always feel bigger than they actually are.
And rear wheel lockups also feel longer than they actually are. What did I typed on my thread? That I skidded for 3 hours? When it was actually 3 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Taller gearing helps to reduce the wheelies off the line, along with shifting your weight forward (handlebar and seating position) and pressing your chest firmly against the tank on acceleration.

Do you think that taller gears affect top speed as well or does wind resistance mostly determine that (once the limiter is removed)?
 

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On my test ride, I got the same surprise. At about 10 mph in first, I cracked the throttle and unexpectantly jumped up well over 30 degrees. So, I got it back down, cooled it through first, shifted to second and took it about halfway to the next gear change and cracked it again lifting about 6" off the pavement. I promptly rode back to the dealer and closed the deal.

Wind resistance plays a huge role in limiting top end. The theoretical calculations are always substantially higher than what you actually can do on the highway.

As previously stated, taller gears will help to reduce acceleration and surprise wheelies. And, without a speed limiter it will bump up your top end. But, mostly what I've experienced is a noticably lower cruising rpm. I needed that on my previous Triumph Tiger 1050, because the high cruising rpm had me frequently trying to shift up when I was already in 6th gear. I don't feel the need to do that on my FZ09, because the rpms are lower with standard gearing. In fact, unless you cruise at 80 mph+, I believe taller gears would have you running it below it's optimum rpm range.
 

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Sounds to me like your still running the crappy dunlops that came on the bike. As soon as you get decent tires you wont be spinning the rear unless your trying to do so
I keep hearing about these crappy Dunlop tires...I like mine just fine .. I certainly never had any traction problems with them ...sure there are better tires available, but its not like the stock tires are slippery if your running the correct tire pressure
 

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Strange. I can't get the bike to wheelie in 2nd on Std mode. It might hop a little -- maybe -- not sure. But it feels like it bogs when I WFO at around 5000 rpm. Sure gets up to 10000 rpm quick though. :sad11:

First gear no problem.
 

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Strange. I can't get the bike to wheelie in 2nd on Std mode. It might hop a little -- maybe -- not sure. But it feels like it bogs when I WFO at around 5000 rpm. Sure gets up to 10000 rpm quick though. :sad11:

First gear no problem.
Get it up to 6000-6500 RPM in 2nd gear, dump the throttle forward to make the front end dive slightly, then gas it. You can thank me later.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

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Get it up to 6000-6500 RPM in 2nd gear, dump the throttle forward to make the front end dive slightly, then gas it. You can thank me later.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I've been experimenting with this and can attest to how big a difference it makes as opposed to just cracking the throttle open :cool:
 

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I've had this bike 12 o'clock so many times this past week that I don't get the I'm going over feeling. The engine brake seems to always bring it back to a safe angle. I'm really liking the clutch ups in 2nd around 30-40mph, really smooth.
 

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On the R1 with lift control on setting 3, I can go wide open throttle in 1st and the front wheel only comes up 6-12 inches. It is a beautiful thing for hauling a$$.
 
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