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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. To I took the fz in for the 1st service. I thought it would be about an hour....... Not the case 3 hrs later my dealer was still working on getting out the filter out . I'm not sure if you know how it looks ( the threaded piece) it's like a male end attached to a nut with another male end. One goes into the motor and the the oil filter screws on the other end. The end the filter screws on from factory was cross threaded. The part is on back order. :(. But the mechanic was able to do some wire wheel and filing spent a fair amount of time on it and was successfully able to reconnect it until the new part comes in. Just a heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thx. Now it's just a matter of getting the part. It should only be about at most an hour. Of course with another fresh oil bath. :))
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
New part is now installed. Back to normal.
 

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Damn that sucks. I have changed the oil three times myself already and the only problem I have experienced was the stock oil filter was on WAY to tight. The manual says 12 ft. lbs i think. It was at least 35 ft. lbs. But I use K&N oil filter with the same nut size on it as the oil drain plug.
 

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Damn that sucks. I have changed the oil three times myself already and the only problem I have experienced was the stock oil filter was on WAY to tight. The manual says 12 ft. lbs i think. It was at least 35 ft. lbs. But I use K&N oil filter with the same nut size on it as the oil drain plug.
Just a heads up. K&N filters are cheap junk. Next time tear the old one apart and take a look, then get a better one.
 

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Just a heads up. K&N filters are cheap junk. Next time tear the old one apart and take a look, then get a better one.
Care to elaborate on that? I switched to this on last oil change so I am curious. I used to use mobil's. Any recommendations on an alternative?

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I've always used K&N on my cars. This is news. I'm also curious to hear about what is considered better.

Is it really that much of an issue changing the oil? I was going to do it myself, but if there are issues, maybe I should just bring it to the dealer.
 

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Honestly, I use K&N flters with Motul oil on my track bike. My street bikes see Fram and valvoline or yamalube oil. Last bike had 23k on it without any problems when I sold it...if you change every 2500-3000, K&N is just fine. Even at 3k, my oil wasn't anywhere near black on the street bike with FRAM filters
 
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I've always used K&N on my cars. This is news. I'm also curious to hear about what is considered better.

Is it really that much of an issue changing the oil? I was going to do it myself, but if there are issues, maybe I should just bring it to the dealer.
Jen, if you've changed oil on your Harley, you can do it. The worst issue I encountered with the first change was the way over torqued filter and drain plug bolt, but if you have a long enough breaker bar, torque wrench or similar, and don't apply excessive force all at once trying to break them loose, it's actually pretty simple-like 10-15 minutes beginning to end. Oh, and make sure you have a drain pan thin enough to slide under the pan-it's a pretty tight fit...
 

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Purolator is one of the best. There are all kinds of info on the net if you google for it.
There are many pictures of the insides with flow rate and filter size tests, etc.
You just have to do some home work.
 

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I understand wanting a nut on the filter to remove it.

However, too many people use the nut to install it and over torque them.

All that is required is that the rubber gasket/o-ring is properly seated and sealed.

The manufacturer specifies hand tight. Something like spin it on until the gasket contacts the sealing surface and then one more turn and stop.
 
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Just a heads up. K&N filters are cheap junk. Next time tear the old one apart and take a look, then get a better one.
Not really sure who told you that, but its BS...They are made by Champion labs, the same company who makes most other oil filters....
 
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