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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have had my shock off and on at least a dozen times. Currently running a ZX6RR.

First off you DO NOT have to remove the tank. This makes it a whole lot easier. The only caveat to this is if you are installing a ZX6 or ZX10 or any shock with a reservoir on the end of the shock. In this case you will want to remove the tank so you can trim the plastic tray that gets in the way of the reservoir. Once you have trimmed the tray you don't need to remove the tank to get the shock off the next time.

1. It is best if you have a rear stand so the bike is upright.

2. Remove the rear fender hugger.

3. Loosen both the front and rear shock mount nuts and remove them and the washers. For the front use a 14mm socket and an extension. For the rear a 14mm box end wrench works well.

4.With both nuts removed you now want to lift the weight off the shock. This is where I do it a little differently than most. I use a scissor jack from my old Honda car. Put the bike in gear then I put the base of the jack on the tire and the top under the seat/fender. I use a small wood block and a small piece of carpet pad so as to not damage the fender area. Now spin up the jack slowly so it begins to lift the rear of the bike while putting your finger on the end of the rear shock bolt. Press firmly on the bolt until it begins to push out. Adjust the jack so the bolt easily slides out. Remove the rear bolt.

5. Use a drift punch to push out the front bolt. You may want to hold onto the shock to support it as you do this.

6. Now you can remove the shock. If your work area is a little tight you can always jack up the rear of the bike a little higher for more
clearance.

Presto shock is out without removing the tank or linkage.

I can do this in 10 minutes and I am not an ace mechanic. I usually work slowly.

1.Its pretty much the reverse to re-install. Begin with the front bolt. This is the hardest part of the whole procedure. An extra set of hands can make it easier. Hold the shock so the front mount hole lines up with the hole in the mounting tabs. Carefully insert the bolt thru the opening in the frame where the bolt came out. Don't force the bolt into the hole but use gentle pressure as you slightly wiggle the shock. Once you get it part way in you can use a punch or socket extension to push the bolt all the way home.

**Make sure you line up the side of the bolt head with the flat spot on the mounting tab. You may have to rotate the bolt so it lines up. You can view it from the rear of the bike to see if it went in all the way.

2. Now install the rear bolt. If you jacked the rear further to get the shock out you will now have to lower it again until the rear mounting holes line up.

3. Once you get both shock bolts in all the way lower the scissor jack and remove it. Now with pressure on the shock bolts they will stay in place while you install the washers and nuts.

4. Install the front nut with your 14mm socket and extension. With the nut inside the socket push it up against the end of the bolt and gently turn and wiggle it until it begins to thread on. Take your time and don't force it. You don't want to cross thread it. Now tighten it to spec or feel if you have an elbow with a built in torque wrench. Lol.

5. Install and tighten the rear nut.

6. Put the hugger back on and shee bee done.

Easy Peasy!

Hope this helps. :nike:
 

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The scissor jack is a good idea. For me it is easy to lift from the garage ceiling.

Is the ZX6RR shock the one that Traxxion Dynamics rebuilt for the 09? Do you still like it? Have you been taking it out for fine tuning or what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The scissor jack is a good idea. For me it is easy to lift from the garage ceiling.

Is the ZX6RR shock the one that Traxxion Dynamics rebuilt for the 09? Do you still like it? Have you been taking it out for fine tuning or what?
Yep its the one Traxxion did for me. Its working well.

To adjust the preload its much easier for me to remove the shock. Trying to spin the adjusters with a screwdriver while on the bike is a total PIA.
 

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Read your recommended method, but decided too many steps for such a simple job. You are right on about doing the top mount first since it allows the height of the rear to be adjusted once the top is undone. Loosen the gas tank to reach under the rear to get the washer off the bolt after removing the nut via a long socket extension. Used two sets of box wrenches on the lower half to remove the bolt; did have to use a floor jack to lower the bike to pull the bolt out. Original shock pulls right out with no issues.

Will be installing the Penske shock later this week when it arrives. Finding a floor jack under the catalytic converter to add/remove height during the removal was key. Still used floor stands under the footpeg mounts once I had the right height, but the floor jack allows me better control of the area to work in by allowing adjustments to height during the work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Read your recommended method, but decided too many steps for such a simple job. You are right on about doing the top mount first since it allows the height of the rear to be adjusted once the top is undone. Loosen the gas tank to reach under the rear to get the washer off the bolt after removing the nut via a long socket extension. Used two sets of box wrenches on the lower half to remove the bolt; did have to use a floor jack to lower the bike to pull the bolt out. Original shock pulls right out with no issues.

Will be installing the Penske shock later this week when it arrives. Finding a floor jack under the catalytic converter to add/remove height during the removal was key. Still used floor stands under the footpeg mounts once I had the right height, but the floor jack allows me better control of the area to work in by allowing adjustments to height during the work.
Its really not that many steps in actuality but I wanted to provide abundant detail as some of the guys like the step by step description.

I really don't like to have to screw with the gas tank so I developed my method.

Happy wrenching.
 

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i think its a good write up! also what year is the zx6rr shock your using and does it require any modification to fit the fz?
 

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When I installed my zx6rr I put the res facing down and didn't need to trim the plastic tray at all. I also removed the battery and the whole tray for the installation. It took my about an hour the first time and maybe 45 mins the second time for the entire job.
 

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i think its a good write up! also what year is the zx6rr shock your using and does it require any modification to fit the fz?
Buy the 05/06 ZX6RR shock. The only modification that needs to be made on the shock is you have to drill out the lower clevis hole to a 12mm...currently it's 10mm. Or you can go the other route (which I did...is you buy the Suzuki spacer, nut, and bolt which is outlined in another thread by Skooter I believe)...the search is your friend. Good luck.
 

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Buy the 05/06 ZX6RR shock. The only modification that needs to be made on the shock is you have to drill out the lower clevis hole to a 12mm...currently it's 10mm. Or you can go the other route (which I did...is you buy the Suzuki spacer, nut, and bolt which is outlined in another thread by Skooter I believe)...the search is your friend. Good luck.
Some of us have found it mandatory to trim a little off the shock resovoir to stop any potential binding... this would be with the resovoior pointed down... it could bind... maybe not for sure but possible... be careful
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Some of us have found it mandatory to trim a little off the shock resovoir to stop any potential binding... this would be with the resovoior pointed down... it could bind... maybe not for sure but possible... be careful
I mounted mine down the fist time. Then I pulled it out and discovered the reservoir had been rubbing the engine case.

It also came real close to knocking off the shrader valve. After this I pulled off the tank and trimmed the plastic tray to mount it reservoir up.
 

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As much as I hated to lift the tank up for such as easy job it does make it more simple to do that way. I didn't disconnect any hoses, just remove frame mounts of the tank and lift it off to the side on a few towels to protect the frame. Gives you plenty of room to work the top shock mount and get the new shock inserted with bolt and washer. The rear didn't require removal of any additional parts, no fender hugger removal needed as you lift and lower the bike using the floor jack from underneath the bike; aftermarket exhaust would require a modified lift point from underneath as mention by OP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
As much as I hated to lift the tank up for such as easy job it does make it more simple to do that way. I didn't disconnect any hoses, just remove frame mounts of the tank and lift it off to the side on a few towels to protect the frame. Gives you plenty of room to work the top shock mount and get the new shock inserted with bolt and washer. The rear didn't require removal of any additional parts, no fender hugger removal needed as you lift and lower the bike using the floor jack from underneath the bike; aftermarket exhaust would require a modified lift point from underneath as mention by OP.
No worries mate.

Different strokes for different folks.

Guess that's why Baskin Robbins has 31 flavors! Lol.
 

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I mounted mine down the fist time. Then I pulled it out and discovered the reservoir had been rubbing the engine case.

It also came real close to knocking off the shrader valve. After this I pulled off the tank and trimmed the plastic tray to mount it reservoir up.

Where did the res touch the case? Any where did the shrader valve come close to contact? I've got plenty of clearance on mine I so I thought. I will have to go double check it now. To my knowledge there has been no contact between the res and the engine and no binding of any kind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Where did the res touch the case? Any where did the shrader valve come close to contact? I've got plenty of clearance on mine I so I thought. I will have to go double check it now. To my knowledge there has been no contact between the res and the engine and no binding of any kind.
The end of the reservoir was rubbing on the back side of the clutch area where the top of the trans case goes from flat to verticle.

You could see where it had rubbed off the finish of the reservoir and was down into the aluminum. There was corresponding rub marks of the engine case too.

When I looked at the marks on the reservoir I could see that the marks went all the way down to the shraeder valve. Also the cap of the valve had some marks on it and it had spun loose.
 

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Where did the res touch the case? Any where did the shrader valve come close to contact? I've got plenty of clearance on mine I so I thought. I will have to go double check it now. To my knowledge there has been no contact between the res and the engine and no binding of any kind.
I'll have to triple check mine now...it was close but I didn't notice the reservoir rubbing on the case or any shrader valve issues. I just had to loosen the starter wire to re-route so it wouldn't get pinched by the reservoir...
 

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The end of the reservoir was rubbing on the back side of the clutch area where the top of the trans case goes from flat to verticle.

You could see where it had rubbed off the finish of the reservoir and was down into the aluminum. There was corresponding rub marks of the engine case too.

When I looked at the marks on the reservoir I could see that the marks went all the way down to the shraeder valve. Also the cap of the valve had some marks on it and it had spun loose.

Wow. I'll have to get a closer look after work today. I'll report back! Are you sure it wasn't rubbing on the ground wire thats in that area. I loosened mine and moved it out of the way because I thought it was going to rub. Its been a while but I dont remember the res being close to that part of the clutch housing. I wonder if we have different shocks. Mines a 2005-06 zx6rr. Thanks for the info.
 

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I'll have to triple check mine now...it was close but I didn't notice the reservoir rubbing on the case or any shrader valve issues. I just had to loosen the starter wire to re-route so it wouldn't get pinched by the reservoir...
Wow. I'll have to get a closer look after work today. I'll report back! Are you sure it wasn't rubbing on the ground wire thats in that area. I loosened mine and moved it out of the way because I thought it was going to rub. Its been a while but I dont remember the res being close to that part of the clutch housing. I wonder if we have different shocks. Mines a 2005-06 zx6rr. Thanks for the info.
Take a look at this post: http://www.fz09.org/forum/32-yamaha...6-fz-09-rear-shock-conversions.html#post20306

The first photo shows the clearance without modification. The side to side play in the upper shock connection easily closes this gap. I would strongly recommend trimming the end of the reservoir if you are mounting the ZX6RR shock with the reservoir down.
 

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Wow. I'll have to get a closer look after work today. I'll report back! Are you sure it wasn't rubbing on the ground wire thats in that area. I loosened mine and moved it out of the way because I thought it was going to rub. Its been a while but I dont remember the res being close to that part of the clutch housing. I wonder if we have different shocks. Mines a 2005-06 zx6rr. Thanks for the info.
Let me know what you come up with...
 

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hi guys , i don't have FZ09 , sorry to barge in on to your forum , but i have loads of other bikes. thinking of changing shock on my R1 this w/end and was looking for easiest way of supporting my bike and come across this post , looks very interesting. do you think jack from my A6 will work for this application? it is looks a bit different from standard scissor jack? here is the picture of the exact jack i have SLB: We Are All Human
 

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My dad went to Harbor Freight and bought a relatively cheap ($50) electric impact wrench with a collection of socks and extensions for it. If I had that when I was doing my shock, I know for a fact I would have been able to get it done insanely fast. One of these is probably one of the best investments you can make if you work on your bike regularly.
 
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