Valve adjust advice - tighter side of spec
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Valve adjust advice - tighter side of spec

This is a discussion on Valve adjust advice - tighter side of spec within the Yamaha FZ-09 Guides and How-To's forums, part of the Yamaha FZ-09 Garage category; So I'm doing my 2nd valve check. First was done at 11k and I'm now at about 31k. I did the first early due to ...

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  1. #1
    Senior Member dcpppf's Avatar
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    Valve adjust advice - tighter side of spec

    So I'm doing my 2nd valve check. First was done at 11k and I'm now at about 31k. I did the first early due to all of the posts about them getting tight, but maybe I got it done too early and the exhaust valves weren't done moving.

    Regardless I've got three exhaust valves that are a hair tight (0.22mm, 0.24mm, and 0.24mm). I'll re-shim those, but my question is on the intake side. Five out of six are measuring at 0.12 or 0.13... While I'm in there is it worth trying to get those closer to 0.18 or something more in the middle or on the higher side of spec?

    For those curious here are all of the measurements. 2014 with roughly 31,000 miles.
    EX: 0.27, 0.26, 0.22, 0.24, 0.24, 0.28
    IN: 0.12, 0.13, 0.13, 0.14, 0.13, 0.12

    ex spec 0.26-0.30
    in spec 0.11-0.20
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    Senior Member blkbrd's Avatar
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    Me personally...I wouldn't bother. It's within spec.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
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    Senior Member dcpppf's Avatar
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    I'm leaning more towards that too; esp after reading more on the topic this morning. I was under the assumption that valves in general only stretched and so clearances would only ever shrink, but sounds as though things aren't that simple.

    if anyone has some info/links to a good read on the topic I'd be all ears.
    Mods: under seat USB charger, complete OES slider/spool set, evotech rad guard, yoshimura FE, barracuda freccia turn signals (front and back), ASV shorty levers (black w/ gold adjusters), puig dark tinted sport screen, APE CCT, Tripage LED Pegs, Ohlin's rear shock, Akra Ti, gold/smoked stainless brake lines (front and back), PowerMadd hand guards

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    Senior Member LouG's Avatar
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    Inlets aren't prone to burning, so being on the tight side of spec gives you slightly longer valve duration.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member dcpppf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LouG View Post
    Inlets aren't prone to burning, so being on the tight side of spec gives you slightly longer valve duration.
    And longer duration essentially equates to more air getting sucked in, right? Does the ECU account for this and increase fuel too, or is the mix just a bit leaner? Bit off topic, but I don't know a lot about the capabilities of ECUs in general... carbs are nice and simple.

    I'll probably leave them alone unless someone has good reason not to. Maybe if one was way out of whack I'd try bringing it closer. I found the paperwork from the shop who did the first adjustment and all but one were 0.14 or 0.13mm 20k miles ago. So they've barely moved at all.

    For anyone who may be curious... Here are the numbers from the service back in January 2016 at 11k miles:
    BEFORE
    EX: 0.16, 0.22, 0.17, 0.22, 0.22, 0.23
    IN: 0.14, 0.14, 0.14, 0.16, 0.14, 0.13

    AFTER
    EX: 0.30, 0.27, 0.27, 0.28, 0.27, 0.28
    IN: 0.14, 0.14, 0.14, 0.16, 0.14, 0.13 (no adjustments made)
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    Senior Member LouG's Avatar
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    Yes, volumetric efficiency improves, but only very slightly if you're talking about hundredths of a mm less clearance. It's within spec, so the ECU etc copes.
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    Junior Member 9Lives's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcpppf View Post
    I'm leaning more towards that too; esp after reading more on the topic this morning. I was under the assumption that valves in general only stretched and so clearances would only ever shrink, but sounds as though things aren't that simple.

    if anyone has some info/links to a good read on the topic I'd be all ears.
    The valves don't "stretch", they expand slightly when they warm up. The reason you loose clearance is because the valve face wears into the seat. The reason the exhaust valve wear more is because the subject to much higher heat and friction caused by the exhaust gases which have tiny partials of carbon. The intake valves are constantly being cooled and cleaned by the relatively cool intake air and fuel. The exhaust valves loosing more clearance is completely normal, there is always a fudge factor in the manufactures specs. Even if they are near or slightly less than the OEM specs, they have a long way to go before it will cause damage. The initial valve adjustment is the most important, this is the "break in" period for the valve, same idea as the rings breaking into the cylinder walls. As has be documented, once the first adjustment is done, very little wear happens after the break in period.
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    Junior Member WRXBatman88's Avatar
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    Hey guys,

    So, I decided that this job couldn't be that difficult since there were some pretty good forum posts with images and directions and a service manual. I am now at the point where I took all my valve clearance measurements, rotated the crank to the recommended BDC, removed the camshafts and re-shimmed my exhaust valves. I realized that when I removed the camshafts there was some spring back involved because some of the cams were still under some pressure from the loaded valve springs. ( I thought it was strange that they would make you remove the camshafts while there was still spring pressure applied..) Now I am thinking that I did not have the 1st piston at the true BDC. Is there any way to rotate the crank to find BDC while the camshafts and CCT are not installed?

    If you have any ideas I am all ears. Thanks in advance!
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  10. #9
    Senior Member dcpppf's Avatar
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    Hey man. First of all, there is some slight pressure on (I think) cylinder 3 intake lobe when you're putting the cams back in. Getting the shafts in place and tightening the caps was a struggle for me. I ended up putting the cam chain on the sprockets and putting the tensioner in very loosly (manual tensioner) just to put a bit of pressure on the sprockets to hold them down and keep from spinning on me while tightening the caps. The intake cam kept wanting to spin 1 tooth on me.

    Now to get to your question... I did the EXACT same thing. You can absolutely spin the crank as she sits. Since the CCT and cams are out you need to be very careful while turning the crank that you don't kink the cam chain and get it wedged up in the chain guide area/side of the cylinder. So just hold it fairly taught up top near the valve cover area and spin half an inch or so at a time. When I was doing this my concern was being at BTDC on the "compression" stroke vs the "exhaust" stroke. Cause there is no way to tell with the cams out. After a couple of phone calls, and deciding "welp... I've got no other ideas"... I came to the conclusion that it didn't matter. Buddies convinced me that these modern bikes likely have a cam position sensor (or some such) that'll make sure the spark plug is only firing on the power stroke. So as long as you get that BTDC arrow thing lined up on the crank side without kinking your cam chain... You should be all good to go.

    Hopefully someone else can chime in on why compression vs exhaust stroke doesn't matter because I would like to know more confidently why that is or is not true.
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  11. #10
    Senior Member Cw09's Avatar
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    There is no compression or exhaust stroke without the cams ,it's just pistons going up and down....

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