Changing Stator/Crankcase Cover
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Changing Stator/Crankcase Cover

This is a discussion on Changing Stator/Crankcase Cover within the Yamaha FZ-09 Guides and How-To's forums, part of the Yamaha FZ-09 Garage category; I'm not sure if this is the proper place to post this. I should start off by saying I'm by no means great mechanically. On ...

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Thread: Changing Stator/Crankcase Cover

  1. #1
    Senior Member Quasi's Avatar
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    Changing Stator/Crankcase Cover

    I'm not sure if this is the proper place to post this. I should start off by saying I'm by no means great mechanically. On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being not able to check your oil and 3 being able to change your tire on a car I'm maybe a 4. I had an issue on some gravel in a corner and laid my bike down on the left hand side, damage was to the bar end, stator cover and a bolt on the rear of the bike holding the chain guard. All and all I was actually pretty lucky considering.

    I decided hell with it I'm going to attempt this myself (with the help of a friend). Ordered a new Cover, gasket and bar end. The bar end any idiot can do took an allan key and 1 minute. For the stator cover I couldn't find any how to's on the interweb for this particular bike I did see a video on a different bike I figured how different could it be? Please keep in mind again that I'm not a mechanic, I'm not even good at mechanical things but I figure I'd post this because it might help someone else out. My description of parts or tools may not be be 100% accurate but I'll do the best I can.

    I was going to drain the oil but then we were thinking it might not be necessary, I could see a good argument for draining it however we did not. We started by loosening all the necessary bolts and the oil started seeping from the bottom as expected. We're looking at the hose from the rad knowing once we loosened it coolant was going to come out. We obviously didn't want coolant in the engine so a light went on and maybe we should have started there. For anyone attempting this please start here, drain the coolant before even touching the bolts holding the cover on. Probably obvious to all of you but a dummy like me not so much. We loosened the hose clamp, pulled the hose and drained the coolant disaster averted.

    So I cut some cardboard out and wrote down numbers (thank you random youtube guy) so we could be sure all the bolts went back where they came from. We started removing the bolts one at a time and sticking them in there place. Once they were all removed it was time to cross our fingers, remove cover and hope everything worked out as planned. It took a little bit of wiggling but we got it off slowly we didn't want to disturb anything and be sure we could get it back together. The wire with the rubber stopper easily pulled out and then there was 2 bolts holding it down and 3 more bolts holding the stator. This is kind of a two person job, I had a thought as I'm typing this maybe the wire can be unplugged allowing you to remove everything in one step but I'm not that smart. Once we have the two bolts holding the wire and the 3 bolts holding the stator it came right out and the cover came free. I rested the stator on some random piece of plastic I found in my garage and it was time to transfer the parts to the new cover. We also had to remove the cover that connects to the Stator Cover that the hose goes into, it is its own assembly.

    The large white plastic gear you see there has a cotter pin holding it down. The large bolt on the front of the Crank Case needs a 14mm allan key, I didn't have one that big. Down to the local auto store Cover in hand we went, ended up finding an allan key that would work and grabbed a pair of pliers for that cotter pin. I'm sure most of you will have all of this stuff, I have a rag tag assortment of tools mostly things I pick up as I need but not being that mechanically inept it's not that often I do my own work on anything. Got what we needed, also grabbed some oil because I knew I'd need to top it up. We're back in my garage removed the cotter pin and the white plastic gear came out. The allan key removed the large brown bolt no problem. We started transferring everything into the new case, there are some dowels as well as a metal sleeve that goes in one of the holes make sure you get everything moved and match it up.

    Alright almost done hard parts done so we figure. I clean the connection point for the new gasket on the bike because the bike is so new there really isn't any old gasket stuck to it it came off in one piece. We bolt the housing piece where the radiator hose goes into on first. I hold the cover he bolts the stator and the piece holding the wire back into the new case and we put the new gasket on. Up to this point everything actually went pretty smooth but getting it back on was a bitch. Maybe it's because I'm not a mechanic and the bike knows this, it's decided to get a rise out of me. It also could be because the large round cylinder inside of the engine is magnetic and is sucking the cover in everytime I try and line it up. This took some patience, I'm sure most of you here could do this first try with Jedi mind tricks and skill but like I said I'm an idiot. The gasket kept falling off nothing was lining up I was swearing.....a lot then all the sudden it was like the skies parted and it was in. I did a visual inspection it looked good, gasket looked good from what I could see all around. So we began putting in the bolts in a crossing pattern hand tight (thanks youtube) until they were all in. Started tightening them like you would when putting on a tire to try and make sure the pressure was applied evenly all around the gasket for a good seal. Made sure everything was tight but not to tight I didn't want anything to strip. Attached the coolant hose and everything was back together.

    Topped up the oil, it had leaked about 24 ounces, topped up the coolant and started her up. Now I haven't taken it for a ride but I did let it run for 10 minutes in the garage and everything seems to be holding fine no leaks or anything. Please read the imaginary disclaimer about me not being mechanically inclined and this is just for shits and giggles. If you want to try this yourself take your time and get someone to give you a hand because four hands are better then two. I don't really have any photo's of putting it back together but use your imagination, it was opposite of it coming apart. The Frame Sliders look untouched because they arrived 2 days after I laid it down and went on after.

    Photos
    Stator Cover - Imgur

  2. #2
    Junior Member Reg IT's Avatar
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    We'll documented. If ever ( hope never) I need to do this I am grateful for this write up.
    Getting me some protectors NOW

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    Senior Member orangeblaze's Avatar
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    Could you share how much the new stator cover cost you? I see the damage to cover but not on the water pump cover. Did you replace that cover also?

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    Senior Member PegasusJockey's Avatar
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    You down grade your abilities way too much...it is enough to say you are new to all this. You did what many won't do...that is tackle something new. That's what it takes to get to be a mechanic. It also sounds like you prepared well by watching videos and doing some research. I am always way to much of a hurry to bother, just jump in with both feet and see how deep the water is...so far I haven't drowned but sometimes I have to be thrown a life line...hehe.
    Quasi, v2Bob, Tonester71 and 2 others like this.

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    Senior Member Quasi's Avatar
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    Stator cover was $100 here in Canada from the dealer, you can find it cheaper online I think. I paid another $18 for the gasket and $18 for the bar end so all told about $150.00. The water pump cover wasn't damaged, just unbolted it and transplanted on the new cover. My next purchase will be the T-Rex Covers. Reason I posted this was because I couldn't find the info when I wanted to try and change mine so I was kind of flying by the seat of my pants.
    rbtmomo likes this.

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    Senior Member orangeblaze's Avatar
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    Not a bad price really. Thought it would be twice that at least. Good work. I have the T-Rex covers and sliders on my bike. I did a photo post you can look at.
    MoFZio likes this.

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    Gold Supporting Member zloikish's Avatar
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    Is that how you spell starter in Canada or is it called a stator? Or is that how you pronounce it? I had to look at the pics to understand.

    I am replacing the covers on the other side because of my little tumble.
    Graphite #108 "EARL" 16k Miles Still Going Strong
    Mods: Satin black paint, ZX-10 Shock, Fork Replacement Springs, CREE L.E.D. Headlamp, bullet LED turn signals with front and rear turn signal running lights, Custom LED Brake modulator, Seat Concepts Seat, Tech Spec Tank Grips and tank protector, Pro Taper handlebars(black) Stoltec ECU , OES fork sliders & swing arm sliders, Mad Hornet Gold levers, MRA double bubble, speigler lines, barkbuster s1's, PR4 shoes, Oxford Heated Grips.
    2015 BMW R1200GS BAMF Beemer
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    Senior Member v2Bob's Avatar
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    3OFAKIND likes this.

  10. #9
    Senior Member Quasi's Avatar
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    I think it covers the Stator coil but if I was naming it I would call it a Arc Reactor because I'm pretty sure it's the samething Tony Stark put in his chest to keep himself alive. When I ordered it I took a picture of it, walked up to the parts counter and told the guy I need one of these to avoid confusion.

  11. #10
    Eva
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    1.Clutch lever. (5EB-83912-03-00) $13.51

    2. Crankcase Cover. (1RC-15411-00-00) $61.73

    3. Crankcase gasket. (1RC-15451-00-00) $8.47

    Totals: $83.71 + $12.50shipping = $96.21

    All from PartShark.com
    Tonester71 likes this.

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