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Oil

3K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  RichBinAZ 
#1 ·
Hello all. I just went for a nice ride on my new FZ09 2016. Last week i installed new OES Frame sliders. After my ride today i noticed this.....


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#5 · (Edited)
If you can't track down the leak, maybe take off the sliders, reinstall the OEM frame bolts. Then take the leak back to the dealer to figure out and fix under warranty???

p.s. - and do not mention one word about installed the frame slider.
 
#13 · (Edited)
My 2 cents for the future of torquing -

When torquing down bolts, it is always wise to build up the torque values, unless you want a better opportunity of stripping out bolts.

This is especially important when you are torque engine mounts, front fork mounts, swing arm bolts, etc...

So if you need to get to 35 ft. lbs., I would torque each one to 25 ft lbs., then go up 3 or 4 lbs. at a time. I may just be paranoid, but this doesn't take a lot of time, so its what I do.

And ALWAYS use the smaller torque wrench for smaller amounts of leverage. It only takes once to mess up and it WILL cost you.

Torquing advice by Jack Handy

Although I think your problem is from adding a touch of oil the the bolts before installing sliders. In this case, i would WD40 the engine where the oil spots are, let it dry (just where its clean looking) and ride more. If this is the case, a few drops of oil that you first added will certainly burn or wear off and you should be fine. But I would keep an eye out for leaks and low oil for sure just in case.
 
#19 ·
I have a different philosophy about oil on threads. It goes...
If you pick up the bolt, it has oil from your hands on it. Bolts are also not cleaned when they come out of the machine they are made on, so they have oil on them. (from my apprenticeship 40 years ago)
Steel bolts corrode with aluminum so putting some anti corrosion compound on the threads is important (<-- this is an aerospace requirement too)

Instead of oil ('cos it does run everywhere) I use chain spray.

As for torques, they just come from a table - different companies have different torque values for the same size bolts.
For critical torques, you can get closer to the required bolt stretch using a torque turn method and specifying a particular lubricant.
Beyond that you need to leave extra threads on the stud, pull the stud with a hydraulic jack to the correct tension, spin on a nut finger tight and then let the jack go.

But that is too much right! That's important when you are holding turbine wheels together, but thin flanges on a bike engine are not that critical.

Getting bolt stretch on a thin flange is almost impossible so the most important thing is not stripping the threads - as has been pointed out - so having a torque that doesn't strip the threads is good for assembly is fine. Not having the assemblers have to deal with oil all over their hands is also important. Having a clean engine not covered with oil drips is also important (didn't that start this thread??).
So that is why they don't lube threads at the factory.
We pay for that later when we try to remove a bolt that has been in for ages, when it pulls the thread out with the bolt.

Note, WD40 has both a solvent AND oil in it. So if you want a clean engine, try carb cleaner or one of those patented engine cleaners
 
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