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XRS900 Slipper Clutch on FZ-09

62K views 81 replies 34 participants last post by  Igor foster  
#1 · (Edited)
So I know Spottedfrog did this already and posted a thread not too long ago, but I figured I could put up so more info that could help someone out. Total cost was right around $225 (before oil and filter, but you're gonna do that anyways).

Quick review - it's fun. Banging down a few gears and dumping the clutch won't lock up the rear. I've gotten pretty aggressive with it and the worst that will happen is the rear will slide around slightly, but that only happens when going down from like 4th to 1st. Engine braking is reduced but not eliminated, as expected. Force required to pull clutch lever is reduced, which is nice.

Edit: partshark has a package together for this now at $215:

XSR900 Slipper Clutch for FZ-09 : Part Shark

Parts list is as follows:

3 x 1TD-16178-00-00 Absorber
1 x 1TD-16324-00-00 Clutch Plate
1 x 1TD-16383-00-00 Cushion Spring
1 x 1TD-16384-00-00 Seat Plate
3 x 2CR-16337-00-00 Spring Screw
3 x B90-16173-00-00 Compression Spring
3 x B90-16331-00-00 Friction Plate
1 x B90-16350-00-00 Pressure Plate Assembly
1 x B90-16352-00-00 Pressure Plate 2
1 x B90-16371-00-00 Clutch Boss
1 x 90179-20010-00 Boss Nut

That is parts: 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 16, 19.

Parts fiche: 2016 Yamaha XSR900 (XSR900GCS) Clutch | Part Shark

Partshark was the cheapest I could find, was fast and has good customer service. They may even give you a $5 off shipping if you call and ask nicely.

Standard tools required - allen wrenches, socket set, 12mm spanner, rubber mallet, torque wrench, 30mm socket, calipers (to measure clutch stack).

Odd Tools - Boss Clutch Holder: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0008-Clutch-Holding/dp/B000HS4NA8

Shop Manual - search around this thread, several links work: http://www.fz09.org/forum/69-xsr900-general-discussion/12586-haven-t-seen-shop-manual-xsr-yet-2.html


Don't need to drain the oil.

Clutch Cover came off with ease. First undo the clutch cable, pretty straight forward (need a 12mm spanner). Gasket came with the cover.


Here is the stocker. Back out the 6 spring bolts. And pull out all of the friction and clutch plates.


Here is the clutch tool engaged on the boss. 30mm socket on the boss nut. I put some towels under the clutch tool and used the foot peg to jam it. I had trouble getting this nut off. First you have to "unstake" to nut. It is crimped on 2 sides around the shaft. I used a tiny eye glasses screwdriver and a hammer to do this. This kills the screwdriver. You really have to bash the hell out of the ratchet with a mallet. Harder than you've ever hit anything to loosen a bolt. Really thought I was gonna break something in the transmission.


But at last it gave way, and discovered why it was so damn hard - red locktite.


And here is the bare clutch basket. After this install is pretty straight forward as far as getting all the clutch pieces back together. Don't forget the large flat washer and spring washer. One of the new friction plates goes in the very back (closest in to the bike), then alternate steel and friction plate that came out of the stocker. the last 3 items are new friction plate, new steel, new friction plate.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Make sure the last clutch steel is engaged with the pressure plate gear (new part), and the last friction plate is offset from the rest. Then in go the rubber "absorbers", springs and spring bolts. Torque spring bolts to 7.2 ftlb. Don't forget the pull rod. Also make sure to measure your stack to make sure it is in spec. Mine came out to 43mm, which is in the middle of the spec.


The last step is getting the clutch cover back on, which I also found to be a huge pain in the ass. First, the teeth on the pull rod have to be pointing towards the bolt hole at the bottom right corner of the CP3 stamped cover. You then have to make sure the cable gear engages with the pull rod in the correct orientation, all while making sure the gasket stays in place. It is doable, but took a while to figure out.

I reused the old gasket, and haven't noticed any leaks, but will monitor and update if the situation changes. Filled her up with oil and a fresh filter and fired her up!

I also used the stock clutch cover, which is not tapped for the damper plate. At first I noticed when I pulled the clutch lever in, I would hear some buzzing in there, but since putting a few miles on it, the buzzing has been reduced, but if I put my head near the cover and pull the lever, I can still hear it. Not going to worry about it.

Hope this helps someone, happy to answer questions.
 
#23 ·
.......At first I noticed when I pulled the clutch lever in, I would hear some buzzing in there, but since putting a few miles on it, the buzzing has been reduced, but if I put my head near the cover and pull the lever, I can still hear it. Not going to worry about it.

Hope this helps someone, happy to answer questions.
The "buzzing" noise might be why the XSR's comes with that extra plastic clutch cover piece.



If you look close, the 2017 FZ-09 appear to have that same plastic cover / damper.

 
#3 ·
Great write-up, thanks!

One tip for aligning the clutch pull rod: use a dab of grease on the clutch rod so it stays in position while you line up the cover. Learned that one several years ago and it works like a charm.
 
#4 ·
Nice w up, You don't actually have to drain the oil first. The oil will all be in the sump. That said It would be a good idea, and I did.
Did you notice how much smoother normal shifting is? To me it was very noticeable after, now I don't think about it and it just feels like it should. It's amazing how fast you get used to the better feel, and forget how it was. Lighter lever is really nice at stop lights, and also noticed that the lever travel to engage/did engage is much less.
 
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#11 ·
Parts Shark was a great tip from Gsatterw. There was a back order situation on one of the parts needed for the upgrade, when I left a message asking for a delivery date, they answered back in a timely manner. I understand that sometimes an order does not go as planned, as long as they make an effort to work with me and acknowledge my concern. Parts Shark will continue to get my business.
 
#21 ·
Ride over to the southeastern part of Ohio. It isn't bad. I live in WV, its awesome here.
 
#27 ·
That kit contains everything you need. And yes, stock clutch cover is compatible.

I installed this in the Spring and it is really really easy.

It's not going to make a profound difference in riding. The only thing you will notice is a lighter clutch pull and MUCH smoother engagement.

Is it worth it? I don't know. I love projects so installing it was more fun than having it. I dont think youll regret it.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I don't hear any noise whatsoever from the clutch. The sound damper in the XSR clutch cover is definitely not necessary.

I think the new 2017 FZ09 and XSR cover are identical to the 14-16 FZ cover. However, the XSR and apparently the 2017 FZ do not have the little plastic guard on it to keep you from burning your leg.

Another cheap mod to go along with the slipper is a clutch push rod arm from the R3. It's $10 and makes the clutch pull slightly lighter. Probably not enough to notice, but it's $10, you can't go wrong.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Just did this upgrade a few months ago to my 2016 after watching the video on why a slipper clutch especially this ramp design is actually a benefit. Was wondering if anyone else who did mod is experiencing a "ticking" feedback at the clutch hand lever? I notice it only when downshifting from higher speeds, and gears. Not at all on upshifting. I haven't rode a 2017 or the xsr90p, but since the same clutch components are installed do they also have a ticking clutch feedback? And exactly what's going on in there to that is causing this?
 
#36 ·
Yes, squeezing the clutch when downshifting mainly from 6 to 5th then 4th. Through my lever It's like I can my foot shifting the trans into a lower gear. I brought This up in another thread, and someone said it was normal feedback? Just wondering if the other cp3 engines on the other bikes with slippers have this, and exactly what causes it? This wasn't there before the mod.
 
#39 ·
Just found this thread:

Here are some pics of the inside of the clutch cover from my 2017 FZ (with slipper clutch), and an older FZ without slipper clutch, not my pic.

non slipper.

2017 slipper.

disc inside slipper.

I don’t think Yamaha just had a bunch of these (discs/plates) leftover from some other bike and needed to use them up. I personally wouldn’t do the slipper mod without getting the correct cover too. Notice the old cover has bosses where the plate bolts on. You probably could just tap those and screw the plate on.

Some of you have noises not present before the mod. Frankly.... who wants to add mysterious noises to their bike, and not know the reason for them.
 
#40 ·
Some of you have noises not present before the mod. Frankly.... who wants to add mysterious noises to their bike, and not know the reason for them.
I don't have any more noise from adding the slipper without the damper. Not saying they put it in there completely unnecessarily, but I'm not wishing I had it at the moment. But hey, whatever floats your boat.
 
#41 ·
“But hey, whatever floats your boat.“ - It’s not about my boat, my ‘17 has it from the factory, you know the way the engineers designed it. If anyone decides to do this mod I’m just trying to show them how it came from the factory and they can decide for themselves which way they want to go. Some people mentioned “noises” including yourself, even though you said the noise may have been there before.

I’m just trying to help people as that is what I think good forums are all about, and I’m sure that was your original intention for this thread. Yamaha clearly designed this engine to be able to use the slipper clutch, and some people might want to make sure they have the factory design.

I find it odd, and misleading, that the online Yamaha parts dealer didn’t include the the correct clutch cover in their parts package. After all they are looking at parts diagrams all day and must have known the covers are different.
 
#42 ·
The same engineers that designed the CCT, the ECU fueling, suspension and the chain tension spec? I’m not saying they’re a bunch of screw ups, obviously they did a great job with the bike but there have been some oversights and no one is infallible. Engineers screw up (and over engineer) all the time.

No one is keeping any kind of secret that the ‘17 has a damper assembly on the clutch cover. It really is what floats your boat. I don’t have a dog in this fight. Buy a new cover or don’t. It really is an individual decision. I, as well as others, have experienced no ill effect from not spending the extra money and are just disseminating the information.

Partshark didn’t include it in the package because they asked me what parts are needed for the conversion and I gave them my parts list. Feel free to contact them and tell them they need to add more parts. This will of course inflate the price of the package for everyone else who wish to perform this mod.